Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Paul, J Hiltz, Naq, Miles, J Maclean, Lawrence, Rick, Brian, Charles McGuigan (new)

Work continued on the serving trays.

The leg pieces were cut.
The stock is about 1 1/2 inches wide and 7/8 thick and about 16 inches long.
The curved recess is done on the table saw  by running the piece across the blade  in a perpendicular direction, thus scooping out a recess. The blade is positioned just a shade above the table top for this and a fence is placed across the top of the table near the blade.

The profile is then scraped using a curved scraper  as close as possible to the shape desired.
Then it is sanded.

The bottom edge is then passed across the jointer to get a 29 degree angle.

The piece stands  on this edge and is held , end on, against the tray(which is supported on two sticks to raise it up) and a pencil mark is made to draw the curve that  matches the bottom curve of the tray.

This profile is then cut by making various passes on the jointer .
It is finished using a hand plane and sanding.

It will be then profiled  using the band saw and a jig to hold the curved edge flat on the table.
This is a flat thin strip glued to the bottom of the foot piece .
Once profiled this way, the stick is cut off.
It is then screwed onto the tray bottom and the sanding jig is used to make the bottoms even.

Staining:

Folkart outdoor metalic gold paint (Walmart)
Mohalk black stain, Salad bowl finish

Apply 2 coats black
Salad bowl finish
Gold coat
Sand off the gold.
The grain will highlight in gold
Salad bowl finish several coats

See photos.

Paul distributed cans of Behlens Salad Bowl finish at a bargain price.

Curved serving tray


Tuesday, November 6, 2012


Serving Tray

Miles, Brian, J Hiltz, J Maclean,Paul
We discussed the fall show and decided that it would be better to work on an Easter show as it is late in the year now.
Leo went over some Tips;
Paint brushes can be suspended above bottom of the jar in the thinner layer to keep the bristles straight; wrapping the bristles in a foil wrap also helps.
When cutting plywood, use a hollow ground blade with no set in the teeth and use a sled. He made one that has a masonite base. Each side of the masonite can be tapped into the blade to creat a zero clearance cut and this results in no splinttering of the stock cut.
A piece of wood can be hollowed out by running it perpendicular across the blade. Various shapes can be done this way (See photos)
We decided on a serving tray project..Japanese style curved tray.
This is done using layers of plywood eg one 1/4 inch and one 1/8 inch piece. The finished thickness needs to be able to accept screws for the feet so don't have it too thin.
These are glued together on a caul that can be adjustable. Use yellow glue. After the clamps are tightened, wait a few minutes and undo them since the plywood pieces slide on the first tightening. Reposition them and retighten.

The photos show the jigs used to do this.
The feet are cut from a hardwood like walnut..a contrasting color.
The project will be about 14 x 11 inch .
The feet will be 8 1/8 x 2 1/8 with a curved profile.
The feet are positioned 3 3/4 inches from the end of the tray.
Use a piece of stock about 7/8 thick to do this.
Leo will buy the necessary plywood and lend us the jig to make the glue-up.
We want this done before Xmas.
Curved serving tray