February 17, 2026

Miles,Paul,Rick,Francis,Jim MacLean,   Lawrence

Miles's Scroll saw project

Rick-Spruce Dish

Rick Spruce,-Birch

The meeting today was excellent.

Lawrence demonstrated a charcoal pouch he made to use with the perforations carving template he showed us at last session. He used a lump of charcoal from the fire place and pulverized it and wrapped it in  cloth. One dabs it on the paper template and when the paper is removed one connects up the dots which are left on the workpiece.

Lawrence discussed the salient issues with respect to spraying finishes:

1    Use a good spray gun, one that has a regulator to enable changing the spray field.
2    Make sure ventilation is good so that the air is evacuated as needed
3    Use a good face mask to trap fumes: one with filters that are replaceable is best
4    Spray beyond the workpiece and with the grain pattern
5    Before spraying, sand the workpiece with 120, 150 paper. Using finer grits is usually not needed
6    Let the piece dry-20-30 minutes before proceeding to a new coat
7    Lay down lots of coats
6    After each coat, cut the last layer with finer sand paper and Varsol lubricant
Rick brought several of his burls and discussed how he goes about turning them...paying strict attention to grain patterns and preserving intricate patterns and knots etc

Francis discussed the issue of radon gas in a home. He has been getting high readings and has had to get a ventilation system installed.  The Passerini Company is local and will do a 90 day radon detection analysis at a cost of $500.(Paul's information)

He also had questions about the use of several chucks-The McNaughton coring system and the Barracuda type chucks. Lawrence was able to explain  how to use the systems.

Lots of discussions about the late  Leo Macneil's expertise and teaching skills and some of the past (deceased) members woodwork skills.

Lawrence demonstrated several pin chucks made of wood and jam chucks.He also demonstrated several turning tools which he made from Vehicle struts!

Lawrence took Paul's bowl out of the refrigerator kiln. The humidity was down to 10-15 % in various spots. He had coated the bowl inside and out with white glue diluted with water to prevent too rapidly  drying the wood.

Rick suggested he bring in an old school desk and use it to go through a finishing session.

Some Canadian Sources:

Bandsaw Blades 

Tufftooth blades

Woodessence

Finishing Supplies

Exotic Hardwoods Canada

Burlington Ontario

Above:  Paul's  improvised Polishing system

February 10/14

Rick, Miles, Paul, J Hiltz and J macLean

We continued to work on the vase project.
Leo has developed a sophisticated jig mechanism to use a die grinder to carve out the designs on the vases while they are mounted on the lathe.

We are practicing gold leafing
Using Fish glue and whiting to place multiple coats on a wood base, sanding every layer to build up a Flat and smooth surface for gold leaf application practice.

The fish glue and whiting  is uses because when the surface is wetted, the glue melts a bit and the gold leaf grabs the surface nicely.

Whiting is limestone (CaCo3)
Could use medusa cement as well

Target makes a water based acrylic lacquer
Bole is clay and water
Mix Bole with glue (Rabbit glue)
Gesso is whiting and concrete bond
Use 8-10 coats
Then add the bole in several coats
Sand to 2000
Apply gold leaf

Use a plastic cap with a foam plug..wetted..to cover your spray gun tip when spraying the acrylic
This prevents the acrylic from drying on the nozzle

Potpourie

Paul,Jim Hiltz, Jim MacLean, Brian, Lawrence, Rick, Chris, Wilson Rudderham

Leo had several projects on:

Helped Brian work on his Accacia vase

Helped Rick mount a bowl 

Helped Paul study the Taig lathe and managed to get it working better than it was.

Discussed the use of Envirotex, a polymer type epoxy. It sands off very easily. Leo is testing it as a sealing finish at the moment.

Also Duraper (?) concrete bond is a good sealing agent

He discussed the Magalithic yard, an ancient measuring system.

We have to look that up!

http://www.robertlomas.com/megyard

Paul, J Hiltz, Naq, Miles, J Maclean, Lawrence, Rick, Brian, Charles McGuigan (new)

Work continued on the serving trays.

The leg pieces were cut.
The stock is about 1 1/2 inches wide and 7/8 thick and about 16 inches long.
The curved recess is done on the table saw  by running the piece across the blade  in a perpendicular direction, thus scooping out a recess. The blade is positioned just a shade above the table top for this and a fence is placed across the top of the table near the blade.

The profile is then scraped using a curved scraper  as close as possible to the shape desired.
Then it is sanded.

The bottom edge is then passed across the jointer to get a 29 degree angle.

The piece stands  on this edge and is held , end on, against the tray(which is supported on two sticks to raise it up) and a pencil mark is made to draw the curve that  matches the bottom curve of the tray.

This profile is then cut by making various passes on the jointer .
It is finished using a hand plane and sanding.

It will be then profiled  using the band saw and a jig to hold the curved edge flat on the table.
This is a flat thin strip glued to the bottom of the foot piece .
Once profiled this way, the stick is cut off.
It is then screwed onto the tray bottom and the sanding jig is used to make the bottoms even.

Staining:

Folkart outdoor metalic gold paint (Walmart)
Mohalk black stain, Salad bowl finish

Apply 2 coats black
Salad bowl finish
Gold coat
Sand off the gold.
The grain will highlight in gold
Salad bowl finish several coats

See photos.

Paul distributed cans of Behlens Salad Bowl finish at a bargain price.

Curved serving tray

Tips on staining

POTASSIUM DICHROMATE

(Bichromate of Potash)

Potassium Dichromate is a water soluble chemical stain that reacts with the tannin in the wood. The oxidizing action replicates and accelerates natural aging and darkening associated with UV exposure. The results are rich tones, with clarity of
the wood grain and pattern. Traditionally Potassium Dichromate is used to darken Cherry, Mahogany, Oak or Walnut.

Preparation:
-- Mix in Plastic or Glass only.Dissolve the Potassium Dichromate
•• 1 teaspoon in 8 Oz, of hot water
or
•• 4 oz by weight into 1 Qt .hot water (100g into 1L).

Test the result on a spare piece of wood.
The color can be darkened by adding more powder or lightened by adding water.

Directions:Apply with the grain using a brush, rag or sponge.
Use two successive coats to help eliminate lap or streaks and
to assure a more even tone when dry. Wipe off any excess with a rag.
Pre-wetting the surface, just prior to application, will aide in even absorption of the Dichromate solution. Use Clean water and a damp (not dripping) sponge or rag.

Allow to dry at least 12 hours, then rub down lightly with a
fine synthetic pad or #0000 Steel Wool, before applying a finish.
Any finish can be used over the 'stained' wood.

Danger: Strong Oxidizer -- USE Eye and Skin Protection.

Avoid contact with eyes, skin, & clothing.
Avoid Breathing dust. Use with adequate ventilation.
Wash hands thoroughly after handling.
If eye contact or swallowed, call a physician.

Minutes

June 7,2011 Jimmy Mac, Chris, Paul, Robert, Miles

1 Firstly Leo discussed the compression chuck that we had made for hollow turning a vase. Paul had his and the process to align it correctly with the tail stock was reviewed:

Mount the plywood disc, which has been screwed to the faceplate and has had a hole drilled in it for the large bushing.
Screw this large bushing into the hole, which has been filled with eopxy.
The fit needs to be a bit loose.
Screw the small “split” bushing (2 inch) into the big one.
Mount a wooden turning into the 2 inch split bushing and center the opposite end to the tailstock.
Jam the tailstock against the assembly and lock it there until the epoxy has dried.
The result should be a chuck that aligns with the tailstock every time.

2 Next Leo discussed circular saw blades. They are not flat.
They have an area that has been “hammered”, resulting in a “wavy” blade.
When the saw revs up to full speed, this area actually flattens out due to centrifugal forces.

The blade will have a critical speed..at that speed it will begin to wobble out and shatter. This is not necessarily the fastest speed. This issue is more critical with large blades such as are used in saw mills.

3 Finishing:

A) Shellac
White shellac is bleeched orange shellac.
Shellac is best if flakes are freshly dissolved. Otherwise the mixture does deteriorate over time. There is a special solvent but alcohol is the original one.
Water and alccohol will blemish shellac so it is not a good finish for items that will be handled or table tops. Best for things like a grandfather clock or wall hanging.
Use a good brush. A good one will cost $200.00 or more! Artist shop brushes are good to use.

Finish sand the wood
Apply a layer of shellac with a brush. At first the result is wavy ridges.
Keep the brush moving back and forth for a long time to smooth the finish. Continuous brushing causes the shellac to meld better (it dissolves into itself so to speak) and eventually the finish is smooth and free of wavy lines.
Let the finish dry and harden (24 hours).
Sand it off.

Then you can stain the shellac!

Apply a layer of oil stain with a foam brush.
Wipe if off with a cloth.Then use a clean dry brush and brush repeatedly , wiping off the brush periodically, until you have an even stain. This is “dry brushing”.
Once the stain is even, Let dry and harden (24 hrs)..
Overcoat with another layer of Shellac.

VERY IMPORTANT!
This time use one brush stroke only.
Do not go back over this stroke.
If you missed a spot wait until everything is dry before coating that spot.
Dry 24 hours for maximum hardness.
You can repeat the whole process to darken the stain.
Last coat is the shellac which is rubbed and polished.

A water based finish like Acrylic can be used in the same fashion as the Shellac process.
Apply finish, using same tecchnique of brushing repeatedly until smoothness has resulted.
Dry
Sand
Apply Stain, wipe it off, and using “dry brush” technique, smooth and even the application.
Repeat the finish layer once dry and sand again.
Re-apply more stain to darken..dry brush technique.
Last coat is the finish and then polish it up.

Coloured Lacquers are another option but they take “Leo-like” skill to apply evenly.
(Not for amateurs)

Paul had two small vases that were stained using aniline green, which highlighted the grain of the ash but the end grain in the top recess, where the candle goes, was blotchy. Leo suggested using a red lacquer to coat the inside of the vases.
The result was striking!

Learning Points:

Shellac is NOT resistant to water or alcohol.
“Dry brushing” is a way to get an even stain.
Keep brushing until you have a smooth result in tone and eveness and USE a good brush.
“Layering” is a technique of applying finish, applying stain, overcoating with more finish, applying more stain to darken and repeating the process until the colour is achieved.

One can’t apply Lacquer over shellac

TIP

Wrap your brushes in tin to preserve shape. The tin is folded around the business end (bristles) of the brush.

4 Leo went over how to hand sharpen an auger bit, which Miles brought in.
File the blade part, the outside round and the spur, using a hand file.


We agreed to meet again in two weeks to get the wood from the Kiln.

Minutes-March 15/11

Most recent meeting minutes:


March 15,2011

Paul, Peter Stanford, Mike MacLean, Wayne, Wilson, Rick, Naq, Mathew, Miles,
Lawrence, Robert, Chris, Frank Chaison

Leo discussed Lacquer.
The origin of lacquer is from the Rhus tree, whhich grows in Japan and China. The sap of the wood is the essence of lacquer.It is poisonous. Sumac is a local tree that is in the same family.

Natural lacquer is durable. It needs moisture to cure.
Leo told the story of a shipwreck that was discovered in an Archipelago around Japan/China. The ship had a cargo of Lacquerware (paper that was coated numerous time with lacquer until it was hard) andd when it was raised the items were in pristine condition even after 500 years in salt water!

France discovered that bugs that ate the Rhus tree were full of lacquer and it could be crushed out of them.
Alcohol was used as a solvent for it.
The French used red wine for this!

White shellac can be mixed with fillers such as soot, Tempera to form a colored finish.
It dries fast and if one adds a second coat, it will dissolve the first coat so one works quickly.

Modern lacquer is made from Nitrocelluloids with other additives to make it flexible (since wood is constantly moving).

Mix white shellac with any Tempra colors.
Shellac flakes dissolve in alcohol or methyl hydrate.
Orange shellac is the better quality.

Fillers such as limestone (CaCO3), Portland cement,Mesussa cemeent, and whiting can be used with Masonary bond to form excellent pore fillers for open grain woods.

Gorilla glue has to be applied to wet wood.
It has a short shelf life.

Leo asked that everyone do a candle vase template for the next session.
This was described in previous minutes.

Leo and Robert went over the method for enlarging an irregulat sketch using a compass and bevel to transfer measurements.

Transfering Drawings and Ecceentric turning and sanding

Biweekly Meeting

Most recent meeting minutes:


March 1/11

Paul, Robert, J MacLean, J Hiltz, Chris, Mike, Wilson, Miles, Lawrence, Wayne

Leo started th evening with a demonstration of how to transfer and enlarge a drawing. The photos show how this is done. He used an example of a sketch for a sculpture done by Robert (a logarithmic curve design). He then went about explaining how to transfer lines so that one could proportionally enlarge this design to a desired ratio
eg 1 and 2/3 larger.

Next he demonstrated how to sand an eccentrically turned cylinder. He used a brace that was bolted to the lathe bed. A stick is pivoted against it with sand paper held by hand (on the stick) and the lathe is turned slowly.

Next Leo went over a few finishes. He stated that Salad Bowl finish is the most durable and best. Urethane oil finish is next and Danish Oil finish next. The oil finishes have to dry a few days between coats. He starts sanding the finish at 1500 grit and then goes to a polish.

Transfering Drawings and Ecceentric turning and sanding

September 28,2010
Paul, Rick, Chris, Wilson, Lawrence

Leo demonstrated the Vicmarc 150 chuck, a heavy duty chuck that is well made.

Members brought in pieces of furniture to discuss refinishing.
Paul brought an end table and Rick brought a cherry wood table he made years ago.
Leo discussed how to remove finish:
Use laquer thinner and paint it on;
Then coat it with paint thinner and rub this off with a cloth or an abrasive;. The solvent makes the finish peel off easier.
Repeat these steps several times.
Use scrapers to get at bad spots.
Disassemble the piece if possible. Steaming off the joints usually works. Use a kettle with a wooden plug in the spout into which a hole has been drilled to fit a hose. This directs the steam directly onto the joint.
Pepper mill mechanisms were distributed at a cost of $15 a piece
(the Lee valley mechanism).
Paul discussed the Trudeau and Peugeot mechanisms but there does not appear to be a source for them. They are excellent nonetheless. They are the ones restaurants use.
Paul brought in a Tagua nut and also one that was turned down to make the top of a salt shaker. It looks like ivory and polishes well.
Leo then discussed the design of the plywood glue assembly that we will use for the pepper mills. He is working on a layout for a 4 foot x 2 foot piece of plywood so that we can get the correct dimensions.

Sep28/2010