Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Vase


Brian, Miles, Rick

Continued the vase project.

Everyone hada pretty good glue-up square.

Leo suggested taking a block plane and fair off the edges of the square.
Then use a square to find the exact center, using a scribe knife.

Then take a round block of wood to screw onto the top. Center it with a brad.
Then drill 4 holes around the periphery and screw the temporary block onto the top.
Use one colored screw (green) so as to be able to mark where the holes are for relocation and make a pencil line on the wood by the green screw.

This end is going on the tailstock.
Cut a square boss on the opposite end.
His will fit into the 4-jaw chuck.
Make it small enough to engage the chuck  jaws easily (1 7/8 about)
Mount this boss onto the 4-jaw at the headstock.
Using the tool rest, turn the square by hand to see how closely it is centered. If one corner is off, remove the piece, put masking tape onto the boss at the opposite corner and re mount.
Do this repeatedly until you have your square centered.
The center the tailstock end.
Turn the square and if one corner is off, stabilize the tailstock center with a block of wood under it, then tap the wood with a mallet to move it in the proper direction.
Repeat this until the tailstock end is square.
Then you can turn the piece to a round cylinder.

Tip:

A Jarno taper is what most drill press Jacob Chucks have.
This won’t fit into a morse taper tailstock .

Vase project Photos

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Vase continued


Paul, Brian and Miles

Leo explained more about the thicknesser.

The table is suspended from the top on two large screws and is raised and lowered on these. As wood enters and the first roller hits it, it actually tilts the table slightly, ths causing the snipe until the outfeed roller is encountered. If a stick of wood is jammed under the table (eg for the final planing cut) it prevents the tilt and snipe. Leo’s planer has two rollers on top and two underneath. The smaller ones have just the two top rollers.

He then went over the glue-up. 

For the top and bottom slabs, he first glues up the thinner slats by placing them all together and clamping them  (without putting glue on the center between each three mating pieces). This way it is a solider thing for the clamping process. A small dab of glue can be placed at the very ends of the center pieces to keep it from slipping. The ends are cut off once the glue dries. Once these are dry, he glues on the end blocks, keeping everything flat. Once dry you can scrape off the surfaces but you can’t plane any off.

Tip:

If you have several pieces glued and the bottom is uneven, a flat piece can be glued to the underside  center with a dab of glue and then the piece is run through the thicknesser to plane off the top section. Flipping it over it  finishes the job.
Vase project Photos