Leo continued on his discussion of finishes. Everyone had a small bowl made for this.
Leo demonstrated a large bowl blank that had "funky" spalted wood with soft spots and lots of fuzz. Usually these are nearly impossible to turn.
Solution:
Coat the wood with Shellac
Then coat with a mix of Shellac and Cabosil--thoroughly ....and wet sand it all in to penetrate
Alternatively use Bond and Cabosil or Clear Acrylic and cabosil
Let Dry
Use a fine Particle carbide cutter to turn, taking very light cuts
The carbide scraper blades work well for this.
They need to be mounted on a tool to work
(We decided to order 10 or 20 for the group. Leo can get them from England)
The result is spectacular--wood turns very smoothly
You can salvage very bad pieces using this technique
Sand off a shellac finish using Methyl Hydrate on the sand paper (wet sand )
Using a clear Acrylic coat on bare wood (2 coats) before staining gives a very nice effect and avoids excess end grain uptake
Leo went over the dry brushing technique of applying stain
Leo showed us several home made scrapers he made using the carbide blades
Tip: Paint can rims become clogged with the paint and as soon as you try to get the cover back on, the groove in the rim of the can is filled with the paint.
Solution: Turn a wooden rim with a lip that fits into the groove in the top of the can and tapered downward towards the inside of the can so you can squeeze off the excess paint.
When you are finished, remove the wood lid and replace the metal one into the now clean groove
Next session we will be doing a spray on finish using the airbrush ( instead of using a brush to put the finish on)
Staining applied to shellac,bond one coat, bond 2 coats, raw wood.The 2 coat bond seemed to give the best result