November 18-20
The weekend show and sale went well.
Turnout was reasonable and the visitors were very pleased and interested.
Several members and Leo made sales and were pleased.
We decided to hold the next meeting two weeks hence.
The radio advertisement and the sign seemed to have had the greatest impact on attracting attention.
Monday, November 21, 2011
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Minutes
Beautiful Fall Evening:November 8, 2011
J Hiltz, Rick, Chris, Paul, Miles, Robert
We finished the sign for the Craft Show and moved it into place.
We then did some work on roughing out blanks from the applewood .
The fliers were distributed to the lads to circulate.
J Hiltz, Rick, Chris, Paul, Miles, Robert
We finished the sign for the Craft Show and moved it into place.
We then did some work on roughing out blanks from the applewood .
The fliers were distributed to the lads to circulate.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Minutes
Rick, Mike, Peter, Jimmy MacLean, Miles, Robert, Chris
We continued to work on the sign, completing the lettering.
It is ready to be placed on the roadside.
Paul and Rick rough turned a wet Maple log to be used as a demo on between center turnings.
Chris and Jim cut up some bowl blanks that will be used as demos as well.
Agreed on the final dates of November 18, 19, 20
Paul took the Curly Maple plate for the Hospital Auction.
Rick agreed to approach radio stations a week before the event.
Fliers are ready for printing and distribution.
Tip:
Letter and line spacing:
When you have a string of letters in sentences that have to be aligned accurately, place the leters vertically abutting against each other, measure the distance that remains in the alloted space, divide by the number of sentences or lines you want to have and this gives the distance apart that the lines will be.
Cut a strip of veneer or cardboard this width and use this as a spaced to line up the sentences.
_____________________________________________________________
A
B
C
D
E
↓
Measure from E to the bottom and divide by 5 to get the spacer width you need
Eg if the arrow length is 20 inches, then 5 inches is the space between lines that you want
We continued to work on the sign, completing the lettering.
It is ready to be placed on the roadside.
Paul and Rick rough turned a wet Maple log to be used as a demo on between center turnings.
Chris and Jim cut up some bowl blanks that will be used as demos as well.
Agreed on the final dates of November 18, 19, 20
Paul took the Curly Maple plate for the Hospital Auction.
Rick agreed to approach radio stations a week before the event.
Fliers are ready for printing and distribution.
Tip:
Letter and line spacing:
When you have a string of letters in sentences that have to be aligned accurately, place the leters vertically abutting against each other, measure the distance that remains in the alloted space, divide by the number of sentences or lines you want to have and this gives the distance apart that the lines will be.
Cut a strip of veneer or cardboard this width and use this as a spaced to line up the sentences.
_____________________________________________________________
A
B
C
D
E
↓
Measure from E to the bottom and divide by 5 to get the spacer width you need
Eg if the arrow length is 20 inches, then 5 inches is the space between lines that you want
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Minutes
October 25/11
Mike, MacLean, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Paul, Robert, Rick
Leo has completed the vase for the show and the large bowl as well, save for a little painting.
Miles and Mike worked on cutting out lettering for the sign. The rest of the group did some preliminary work in preparing several blanks of Apple and Birch for the show.
Leo went over how to sharpen a chain saw for ripping. The dremmel, using the diamond bit was used although diamond drill bits are not great in cutting ferrous metals as they shatter a lot.
We decided to Auction off the Maple plate at the Fiddlers Green show Center 200 on November 26, which is the Hospital fund raiser.
We will distribute some fliers as best we can.
Mike, MacLean, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Paul, Robert, Rick
Leo has completed the vase for the show and the large bowl as well, save for a little painting.
Miles and Mike worked on cutting out lettering for the sign. The rest of the group did some preliminary work in preparing several blanks of Apple and Birch for the show.
Leo went over how to sharpen a chain saw for ripping. The dremmel, using the diamond bit was used although diamond drill bits are not great in cutting ferrous metals as they shatter a lot.
We decided to Auction off the Maple plate at the Fiddlers Green show Center 200 on November 26, which is the Hospital fund raiser.
We will distribute some fliers as best we can.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Fall meeting
Rick, J Hiltz, Robert, Paul, Peter and Mike and Miles
Leo showed the finished plate for the fall sale at the Hospital fund raiser.
We then started work on the large bowl and vase for the sign. We each took a turn doing the vase or bowl and got the basic shapes established. The plan is to continue to meet weekly to get everything ready.
Leo showed the finished plate for the fall sale at the Hospital fund raiser.
We then started work on the large bowl and vase for the sign. We each took a turn doing the vase or bowl and got the basic shapes established. The plan is to continue to meet weekly to get everything ready.
 |
| New Album 11-10-04 9:22 PM |
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Meeting
Paul, Lawrence, Miles, Rick, J Hiltz, Robert
Lawrence collected some annual dues, which is $100.00
Miles brought some interesting books he recently purchased.
Discussion on the fall show, the flier, and a sign.
Leo has come up with a design for the sign which includes two large unfinished pieces..a bowl and a vase that will be mounted on top of the sign so that traffic going either way will spot it..
We need two sheets of plywood and some white sign board to make the letters.
Topic: Painting over an old piece that has voids and scales:
1 Scrape of the surface and then dust off the debris.Use a carbide scraper blade..Lee Valleey. Can be resharpened using diamond plates on Leo’s turntable grinder.: 3000-8000-10,000
2 Apply a coat of Acrylic Concrete bond..the white stuff.
3 Then apply a mixture (50:50) of the (water) paint you want plus the concrete bond. Trowel this layer smooth.
4 Sprinkle on filler: whiting or lime or portland cement and trowel this in to fill voids and valleys.
5 Spread on another coat of the 50:50 mixture and trowel this in to build up the defects.
6 Let dry
7 Sand lightly
8 Coat with acrylic paint of your choice
9 Once dry another coat of the concrete bond
Use methyl Hydrate to clean off the trowels, tools and your hands.
Next Leo took a big end of a telephone pole-Douglas Fir, for the vase part of the display.
This was chain sawn to a square end.
Then the centers were found on each end.
It will be mounted on the lathe for next sessionand turned to a shape.
Lawrence collected some annual dues, which is $100.00
Miles brought some interesting books he recently purchased.
Discussion on the fall show, the flier, and a sign.
Leo has come up with a design for the sign which includes two large unfinished pieces..a bowl and a vase that will be mounted on top of the sign so that traffic going either way will spot it..
We need two sheets of plywood and some white sign board to make the letters.
Topic: Painting over an old piece that has voids and scales:
1 Scrape of the surface and then dust off the debris.Use a carbide scraper blade..Lee Valleey. Can be resharpened using diamond plates on Leo’s turntable grinder.: 3000-8000-10,000
2 Apply a coat of Acrylic Concrete bond..the white stuff.
3 Then apply a mixture (50:50) of the (water) paint you want plus the concrete bond. Trowel this layer smooth.
4 Sprinkle on filler: whiting or lime or portland cement and trowel this in to fill voids and valleys.
5 Spread on another coat of the 50:50 mixture and trowel this in to build up the defects.
6 Let dry
7 Sand lightly
8 Coat with acrylic paint of your choice
9 Once dry another coat of the concrete bond
Use methyl Hydrate to clean off the trowels, tools and your hands.
Next Leo took a big end of a telephone pole-Douglas Fir, for the vase part of the display.
This was chain sawn to a square end.
Then the centers were found on each end.
It will be mounted on the lathe for next sessionand turned to a shape.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
glueing anything to anything
just found this site that lists glues to use to glue things together. might be handy for someone. hope I've got the URL right. if not just Google search it
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Minutes
June 7,2011 Jimmy Mac, Chris, Paul, Robert, Miles
1 Firstly Leo discussed the compression chuck that we had made for hollow turning a vase. Paul had his and the process to align it correctly with the tail stock was reviewed:
Mount the plywood disc, which has been screwed to the faceplate and has had a hole drilled in it for the large bushing.
Screw this large bushing into the hole, which has been filled with eopxy.
The fit needs to be a bit loose.
Screw the small “split” bushing (2 inch) into the big one.
Mount a wooden turning into the 2 inch split bushing and center the opposite end to the tailstock.
Jam the tailstock against the assembly and lock it there until the epoxy has dried.
The result should be a chuck that aligns with the tailstock every time.
2 Next Leo discussed circular saw blades. They are not flat.
They have an area that has been “hammered”, resulting in a “wavy” blade.
When the saw revs up to full speed, this area actually flattens out due to centrifugal forces.
The blade will have a critical speed..at that speed it will begin to wobble out and shatter. This is not necessarily the fastest speed. This issue is more critical with large blades such as are used in saw mills.
3 Finishing:
A) Shellac
White shellac is bleeched orange shellac.
Shellac is best if flakes are freshly dissolved. Otherwise the mixture does deteriorate over time. There is a special solvent but alcohol is the original one.
Water and alccohol will blemish shellac so it is not a good finish for items that will be handled or table tops. Best for things like a grandfather clock or wall hanging.
Use a good brush. A good one will cost $200.00 or more! Artist shop brushes are good to use.
Finish sand the wood
Apply a layer of shellac with a brush. At first the result is wavy ridges.
Keep the brush moving back and forth for a long time to smooth the finish. Continuous brushing causes the shellac to meld better (it dissolves into itself so to speak) and eventually the finish is smooth and free of wavy lines.
Let the finish dry and harden (24 hours).
Sand it off.
Then you can stain the shellac!
Apply a layer of oil stain with a foam brush.
Wipe if off with a cloth.Then use a clean dry brush and brush repeatedly , wiping off the brush periodically, until you have an even stain. This is “dry brushing”.
Once the stain is even, Let dry and harden (24 hrs)..
Overcoat with another layer of Shellac.
VERY IMPORTANT!
This time use one brush stroke only.
Do not go back over this stroke.
If you missed a spot wait until everything is dry before coating that spot.
Dry 24 hours for maximum hardness.
You can repeat the whole process to darken the stain.
Last coat is the shellac which is rubbed and polished.
A water based finish like Acrylic can be used in the same fashion as the Shellac process.
Apply finish, using same tecchnique of brushing repeatedly until smoothness has resulted.
Dry
Sand
Apply Stain, wipe it off, and using “dry brush” technique, smooth and even the application.
Repeat the finish layer once dry and sand again.
Re-apply more stain to darken..dry brush technique.
Last coat is the finish and then polish it up.
Coloured Lacquers are another option but they take “Leo-like” skill to apply evenly.
(Not for amateurs)
Paul had two small vases that were stained using aniline green, which highlighted the grain of the ash but the end grain in the top recess, where the candle goes, was blotchy. Leo suggested using a red lacquer to coat the inside of the vases.
The result was striking!
Learning Points:
Shellac is NOT resistant to water or alcohol.
“Dry brushing” is a way to get an even stain.
Keep brushing until you have a smooth result in tone and eveness and USE a good brush.
“Layering” is a technique of applying finish, applying stain, overcoating with more finish, applying more stain to darken and repeating the process until the colour is achieved.
One can’t apply Lacquer over shellac
TIP
Wrap your brushes in tin to preserve shape. The tin is folded around the business end (bristles) of the brush.
4 Leo went over how to hand sharpen an auger bit, which Miles brought in.
File the blade part, the outside round and the spur, using a hand file.
We agreed to meet again in two weeks to get the wood from the Kiln.
1 Firstly Leo discussed the compression chuck that we had made for hollow turning a vase. Paul had his and the process to align it correctly with the tail stock was reviewed:
Mount the plywood disc, which has been screwed to the faceplate and has had a hole drilled in it for the large bushing.
Screw this large bushing into the hole, which has been filled with eopxy.
The fit needs to be a bit loose.
Screw the small “split” bushing (2 inch) into the big one.
Mount a wooden turning into the 2 inch split bushing and center the opposite end to the tailstock.
Jam the tailstock against the assembly and lock it there until the epoxy has dried.
The result should be a chuck that aligns with the tailstock every time.
2 Next Leo discussed circular saw blades. They are not flat.
They have an area that has been “hammered”, resulting in a “wavy” blade.
When the saw revs up to full speed, this area actually flattens out due to centrifugal forces.
The blade will have a critical speed..at that speed it will begin to wobble out and shatter. This is not necessarily the fastest speed. This issue is more critical with large blades such as are used in saw mills.
3 Finishing:
A) Shellac
White shellac is bleeched orange shellac.
Shellac is best if flakes are freshly dissolved. Otherwise the mixture does deteriorate over time. There is a special solvent but alcohol is the original one.
Water and alccohol will blemish shellac so it is not a good finish for items that will be handled or table tops. Best for things like a grandfather clock or wall hanging.
Use a good brush. A good one will cost $200.00 or more! Artist shop brushes are good to use.
Finish sand the wood
Apply a layer of shellac with a brush. At first the result is wavy ridges.
Keep the brush moving back and forth for a long time to smooth the finish. Continuous brushing causes the shellac to meld better (it dissolves into itself so to speak) and eventually the finish is smooth and free of wavy lines.
Let the finish dry and harden (24 hours).
Sand it off.
Then you can stain the shellac!
Apply a layer of oil stain with a foam brush.
Wipe if off with a cloth.Then use a clean dry brush and brush repeatedly , wiping off the brush periodically, until you have an even stain. This is “dry brushing”.
Once the stain is even, Let dry and harden (24 hrs)..
Overcoat with another layer of Shellac.
VERY IMPORTANT!
This time use one brush stroke only.
Do not go back over this stroke.
If you missed a spot wait until everything is dry before coating that spot.
Dry 24 hours for maximum hardness.
You can repeat the whole process to darken the stain.
Last coat is the shellac which is rubbed and polished.
A water based finish like Acrylic can be used in the same fashion as the Shellac process.
Apply finish, using same tecchnique of brushing repeatedly until smoothness has resulted.
Dry
Sand
Apply Stain, wipe it off, and using “dry brush” technique, smooth and even the application.
Repeat the finish layer once dry and sand again.
Re-apply more stain to darken..dry brush technique.
Last coat is the finish and then polish it up.
Coloured Lacquers are another option but they take “Leo-like” skill to apply evenly.
(Not for amateurs)
Paul had two small vases that were stained using aniline green, which highlighted the grain of the ash but the end grain in the top recess, where the candle goes, was blotchy. Leo suggested using a red lacquer to coat the inside of the vases.
The result was striking!
Learning Points:
Shellac is NOT resistant to water or alcohol.
“Dry brushing” is a way to get an even stain.
Keep brushing until you have a smooth result in tone and eveness and USE a good brush.
“Layering” is a technique of applying finish, applying stain, overcoating with more finish, applying more stain to darken and repeating the process until the colour is achieved.
One can’t apply Lacquer over shellac
TIP
Wrap your brushes in tin to preserve shape. The tin is folded around the business end (bristles) of the brush.
4 Leo went over how to hand sharpen an auger bit, which Miles brought in.
File the blade part, the outside round and the spur, using a hand file.
We agreed to meet again in two weeks to get the wood from the Kiln.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Minutes
Paul, Robert, Peter, Mike, wilson, Jimmy MacLean, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris
Leo went over the use of the acrylic concrete bond and how to use it for painted surfaces:
Apply it as a prime coat
Apply paint right away right over the wet acrylic
Let dry and you can add a second coat of the paint for a good finish
One can use fillers wth this acrylic to fill voids.
If the void is in a wet area, use Portland cement as this will dry in wet environment.
Else use Lime (fertilizer) as a filler if the area being filled is in a dry envoronment.
Leo then discussed how the kiln process works.
To get precise measurements of moisture content:
Cut off an end sample of the stock;
Bake it in an oven and periodically weigh it untill there is no change in weight;
It is then 100% dry
Eg first weight was 2 pounds, finish weight is 1 pound, then 1 pound of water was removed.
If you want , say 10% moisture content, stop the drying process before it gets to a weight of 1 pound, ie the weight will be one 1.1 pounds(10% of one pound is 0.1 pounds, which is 1.6 ounces)
CASE HARDENING
Case hardening is a condition of internal stress in wood due most commonly to overly rapid drying and/or improper conditioning after drying. A casehardened board cannot be visually distinguished from any other board, but they can be VERY dangerous in rip-sawing, particularly with radial arm saw (ANY ripping with a RAS is somewhat dangerous). What happens is that the stresses cause the saw kerf to close up and bind against the blade on the outfeed side. On a table saw this can cause kickback and on a RAW it can cause kickback AND it can also cause the plank to rise up on the outfeed side of the cut and get chewed up instead of making a clean cut. By cutting off a small sample piece and bandsawing a long slot along the grain as shown below, you can tell whether or not a plank is case hardened, BUT ... be aware that case hardening is very localized, so testing one end of a plank doesn't tell you anything about the middle or the other end.
Most kiln dried wood will be around 6% moisture content
Leo gave each of us a bowl blank to make something.
We decided to do a session on lacquer spray and stain technique next.
Leo went over the use of the acrylic concrete bond and how to use it for painted surfaces:
Apply it as a prime coat
Apply paint right away right over the wet acrylic
Let dry and you can add a second coat of the paint for a good finish
One can use fillers wth this acrylic to fill voids.
If the void is in a wet area, use Portland cement as this will dry in wet environment.
Else use Lime (fertilizer) as a filler if the area being filled is in a dry envoronment.
Leo then discussed how the kiln process works.
To get precise measurements of moisture content:
Cut off an end sample of the stock;
Bake it in an oven and periodically weigh it untill there is no change in weight;
It is then 100% dry
Eg first weight was 2 pounds, finish weight is 1 pound, then 1 pound of water was removed.
If you want , say 10% moisture content, stop the drying process before it gets to a weight of 1 pound, ie the weight will be one 1.1 pounds(10% of one pound is 0.1 pounds, which is 1.6 ounces)
CASE HARDENING
Case hardening is a condition of internal stress in wood due most commonly to overly rapid drying and/or improper conditioning after drying. A casehardened board cannot be visually distinguished from any other board, but they can be VERY dangerous in rip-sawing, particularly with radial arm saw (ANY ripping with a RAS is somewhat dangerous). What happens is that the stresses cause the saw kerf to close up and bind against the blade on the outfeed side. On a table saw this can cause kickback and on a RAW it can cause kickback AND it can also cause the plank to rise up on the outfeed side of the cut and get chewed up instead of making a clean cut. By cutting off a small sample piece and bandsawing a long slot along the grain as shown below, you can tell whether or not a plank is case hardened, BUT ... be aware that case hardening is very localized, so testing one end of a plank doesn't tell you anything about the middle or the other end.
Most kiln dried wood will be around 6% moisture content
Leo gave each of us a bowl blank to make something.
We decided to do a session on lacquer spray and stain technique next.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Minutes May 10/11
Most recent meeting minutes:
Attendance Naq, Paul, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Peter, Mike, Robert, Chris
Leo showed how to repair broken bowl blanks using wood clamp jigs epoxied to the round sides of the wood.
Leo described how wood dries out naturally and by Kiln.
Air drying can get to around 12% moisture but rarely lower.
Kiln dry can go down to 6%.
Moisture content of ambient wood around the shop..ie after years is around 8% on average.
Jim Hiltz demonstrated the McNaughton coring system on a large blank.
Attendance Naq, Paul, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Peter, Mike, Robert, Chris
Leo showed how to repair broken bowl blanks using wood clamp jigs epoxied to the round sides of the wood.
Leo described how wood dries out naturally and by Kiln.
Air drying can get to around 12% moisture but rarely lower.
Kiln dry can go down to 6%.
Moisture content of ambient wood around the shop..ie after years is around 8% on average.
Jim Hiltz demonstrated the McNaughton coring system on a large blank.
 |
| May10/11 meeting |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)