May 26/09 meeting

May 26/09

J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Chris, Paul

Tonight we completed the drilling and tapping of the holes for the end pieces. We hand tapped the holes and then tapped in the half inch threaded rod using soap as a lubricant. File off a groove on opposite sides of the end of the rod. This allows it to cut and enter cleanly.

Once the rod is threaded through the pieces, one end had a bolt welded on and the other end two bolts so that it can be disassembled if need be.

Leo discussed the strength of various thread patterns.

Planer Jig

This is from Fine Woodworking Magazine and is a variation on Leo's jig for using the thickness planer as a jointer.

Just click on the title Planer Jig to view the article.

I have a subscription to the online version and can view the articles and download them so if you come across something you want me to download, speak up.

PFM

May 19, 2009 meeting

Attendance: Miles, Jim Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Bob, Lawrence, Paul

We continued to work on the boring jig. Leo has made more refinements on the prototype. (The mock-up was the original one he made and demonstrated for ua a few meetings ago)

Jim Hiltz and Rick have done acceptable work on their project but Paul managed to make a “balls” of his. He cut the platform too short and has to start all over. Instead of sympathy and understanding, he received mockery from some of the lads and was left feeling abashed. So much for camaraderie! (Only Lawrence Martell showed empathy. Perhaps Lawrence had the experience of cutting a few pieces too short in is time).

The overall length of the platform is about 25 inches and it is 11 inches wide and at least one inch thick.

Cut a dado 2 1/2 inches in from each end to accept uprights (1 3/8 thick) and cut tenons on the ends of the uprights to fit snugly in the dado. Do this carefully.

Mark a point in the center of the board 1 1/2 inches in from the dado on one end and then swing an ark 13 1/8 inches up to the opposite end and drill this arc out with 1 / 2 inch holes to create a curved arc. The arc ends about 2 inches in from the side edges. Drill the first marked point to 1/2 inch also.

Drill a series (see photo) of 1/4 inch holes along each edge, spacing them about 11/16 inches apart on center and starting 1 1/2 in in from the edge for the first one.

Use a jig on the drill press to include a pin to insure that each hole is identically separated from the rest.

Flip the board to drill the holes on the opposite end.

The upright will have a through hole bored across its length ( 1 3/4 inches in from the tenon end) to accept the threaded rod. This hole is bored at 7/16 inches (the hole is then threaded to 1/2 inches).

A special jig is used on the press to drill the hole part way through one side, flip it and do the other side and then finish it with a hand drill. It consists of a welded iron right angle brace, against which the workpiece is clamped to make sure that it is 90 degrees to the bit travel. (see photos)

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Lay the test piece on top of the assembled workpiece/squaring jig and play with it until the bit enters correctly when the piece is flipped end to end.Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

See photos.

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

From May 19 meeting

May 12/09 meeting

Attendance:

Naq, Murphy, Miles, Jim MacLean, J Hiltz, Chris, Rick, Wilson,

Leo developed the plan for an improved version of the boring jig for the lathe.

It is hard to explain in words so check the photos for some appreciation of how it is made.

Leo showed how to use the drill press to make an arc shaped groove into a piece of wood, using a brad point bit to cut a series of holes along the arc and the Forstner bit to clean up the holes and finally using an end mill bit to further improve the result.

Leo discussed how to sneak up on cuts on the table saw..eg for cutting a dado and an end tenon.

Leo revisited the jig for turning a thickness planer into a jointer....see the March 24/09 minutes for a comment about this.

Leo cut each of us a piece of birch to get started on the jig.

Jim Hiltz spoiled Paul's piece by burning the end on the saw and refused to exchange his "good" piece for the one he assigned to Paul. He certainly was a bad sport tonight.

Minutes..May 5, 2009

May 5, 2009

Attendance: Paul, J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Miles, J MacLean, Chris

We discussed the summer lobster party.

Paul would host this but can't until the latter part of August (by orders from Jo-Anne).

Those present felt that we could live with this agenda.

Leo invented a mechanical mechanism made of wood to use as a boring bar for the hollow turnings projects.

He went through the process of making it and then used it to turn the inside of the vase...Ricks. See photos for what the design is like.

Tip: When turning a thin plate, the piece will wobble as you turn the outside edge . To avoid this, turn the back first and finish it in the usual fashion; then reverse it; turn the outer 1/3 as thin as you want it, leaving the inner circle good and thick to provide substance to avoid wobble; then turn the inside.

Tip: A clutch can be used with your cutting tool to do a "facing", ie make a flat surface on the turning.:eg in facing a thin piece. This consists of a hollow ring (metal or wood) with a plate on the side of it about 3 or 4 inches long. The hollow in the center is just a little bigger than the gouge. When the side plate is squeezed, it secures the cutter tightly and provides rigidity to bring the tool across the workpiece evenly.