Table continued

Wayne, Peter, Mike, Rick, J MacLean, Miles, Paul, Lawrence

Leo discussed glueing up panels.Once stock is planed, stand the pieces on edge and clamp together with spacers for a week so that air can circulate and let them accomodate to the humidity equally and prevent a warp.

Once glued up, routing grooves on the underside invisible surface can prevent warp. (Don’t rout right out to the end of the panel however as then the groove will be visible on edge.
If you intend to profile the edges, leave enough width so that you can rout the end grain edge
( which results in tear out) and then rout the panel to final width and routh the other edges (with the grain).

Once the top panel is done and the legs profiled, next is to cut the aprons to fit the assembly. Apron ~4 1/2 inches wide. This allows 1 1/2 inchs top and bottom for the drawer to fit.
The tops of the legs are spaced differently from the sides and fonrt/back of the panel.
The distance on top is 3/4
Side is 1 1/4
See the photos attached to this posting for a better idea of what this means.

Leo discussed planes and plane blade angles of attack, cap iron sharpness.
The primus plane is the best for flattening a top. The blade is adjusted by tapping the plane. The ones with the knob on end to advance the blade are more tedious to operate.
He then discussed scrapers and how to use and sharpen them.
Remember to take the sharp corners off the cutting edge.
Hint: Don’t use diamond stones to sharpen ferrous metal blades.
It wears awary the diamonds.

Table project

January 28,2012---Naq's new Lathe

Many of the members (Rick, Paul, Jim MacLean, Jim Hiltz, Peter, Chris, and guest Donnie Campbell (Yes the famous Donnie!)) met at Tim Horton's for breakfast and the proceeded to Naq's house on St. Peters Road to help assemble his new General International lathe.

Lots of fun!

Meeting

Jim Hiltz, Jim MacNeil, Peter, Mike, Chris, Miles,Wayne, Paul

We began work on the table project.

Step 1 Sketch a design
Eg top 18x16,, drawer, leg shape

Step 2 Material list

Choose stock for top: 6-8% moisture content is best

Leo chose a large board of cherry and cut it into 18 inch pieces--three for the top
Flatten one side on the jointer, choosing grain direction to minimize tear out
Flatten the second side on the thickness planer again being careful with grain direction

Leo demonstrated a jig to use the jointer as a thicknesser..see photos:

When one side is flattened, run the board along the table saw to make a cut along the top and bottom edges; there will be a rough section left in the center; run the board along the sled jig to remove this section until that side is flat and it should be parrallel with the opposite face now.




Next joint the edges of the boards.
Place the first board “marked side” in to the fence and the next board “marked side” out so that any discrepency in the jointer fence is cancelled out as the boards meet.

When boards are planed, align them with the end grain patterns alternating up and down if possible but the main thing is to get the top surface matching for pattern and grain direction.
Line them up and draw a reference mark along the top so that they can be reassembled correctly.

Glue up the panel , making sure the edges are flat and the joints flush.
Pinch together one end of the panel with a clamp. If the opposite end separates, the joints are not good.
Leo demonstrated his new jig for bowl turning.
He went over carbide blades, describing microcrystalline manufacturing.

Leo described how a thickneser works.
There are rollers that drag the wood through and the cutter rotates on top of the board.
The rollers tend to tip the board as it enters and leaves, leaving snipe at both ends.
The best machines have four rollers..two at each end so that the board is kept level as it rides along two rollers on entry and again on exit. Click the picture below to see a sketch of what this means!

From Table project

We need to make the panel and turn four legs by next session.

Table project