Table project Instructions

Make sure the table saw is tuned up square before beginning

Make sure that the wood is well dried

1 Design the table and write all measurements for the legs, aprons, top

2 Choose stock--material list: Height-24 3/4: With 20-24: Depth 17-18

Top-3/4 to 13/16 thickness

Glue up , flatten with planer or hand plane, and then clamp it straight and let it accommodate for a few days to prevent warping.

Aprons-same thickness as the top usually. Make sure that your measuremnts include the tenons length.

3 Legs

Make a Story-stick with all the rounds and profiles drawn on and use it to make identical turnings

Start with squared stock at 2 inches width or a fraction less

Measure off where the Pommel ( the top square part) will end

Draw lines around all four sides at tis point

Wrap Masking tape along the line edges (to prevent tear-out when turning)

Start turning well below the end of the pommel and work up towards it.

Try to cut straight in by the masking tape

Profile the rest of the leg
  Sand the legs 

4 Drill the mortices in the legs on two adjacent sides where the aprons will join, bringing the apron edge in about 1/8 from the edge of the leg

Mortices should be deep and less than the length of the apron’s width so as not to create a visible gap at the bottom of the apron.

5 The leg edges are in about 3/4 inches from the table top along the front and back and about 1 1/4 in from the sides. Use this measurement to figure out the apron lengths and don’t forget to allow for the tenons when cutting the stock for the aprons

6 Cut the tenons on the ends of the aprons, making sure that they are cut squarely.

Do this using a tenon jig or the table saw.

The final thickness of the tenons is reached using a jig and hand plane ( rabbet) 

to make the tenon the exact thickness that the mortice openings are ,less a hair!

7 Cut the profiles on the tenons so that they interlock when assembled (haunched mortice and tenon joint). Make the joint snug.

8 Dry assemble the table parts and mark the tops of the legs with a mark to denote the inside corner. The best faces will be on the outter visible sides and flawed faces on the inner sides. Mark the tops of the aprons with an arrow pointing inwards so that when doing the grooves for the buttons, they are  cut on the correct side of all four pieces.

9 Mark the opening for the drawer, choosing the best apron for the front.

Bring the lines right around all four sides of the aprons.

Make the edge of the drawer opening at least one inch from the top and bottom of the apron because groves will be cut on the inside edge and you want lots of room for this so that the groove won’t weaken the remaining part of the apron opening.

Cut out the long sides of the opeining on the table saw, carefully, using stops or markings on the fence to know where to stop the cut.

Use a hand saw to bring the cut all the way down to the markings

Then use a sharp chisel to chop out the opening waste. 

Start the chop in from the line and chop it down to the center and then turn the apron around to chop out the other side.

Use a sharp chisel and then a file , preferably a planemakers float, to bring the cut down to the lines on all four sides of the opening. A jig is used to do this.

10 Next cut the grooves for the buttons all around the top inside edges of the aprons (tops only). Usually this is a 1/4 inch groove. The button will slide into the groove and be screwed to the underside of the top. This keeps the top flat and yet allows for movement of the wood.

11 Make enough buttons to secure the top...depends on the length and width how many are needed.

12 Drawer runners are next.

The ones at the top will have a tenon that will fit into the groove that was cut for the buttons but the thickness of this piece is shy of the top a little.

The ones at the bottom will fit into a mortice that is cut on the bottom inside of the front and back aprons.