Vase continued

J Hiltz, J Maclean, Rick, Paul

Rick discussed his Montreal trip and visit to a woodwork group there.

We continued to work on the vase.
Jim Hiltz had one shaped and ready for the inlay steps.
It was actually a new vase

(he tried to let on that it was the original one , which he has ruined  but we were quick to catch him on this)

Leo showed us how to lay out the curves on the lathe bed which the router will follow .
The designed is pencilled onto the vase using the index head to make three symmetric design patterns.

It is important that the vase be well centered before getting to this step.
https://picasaweb.google.com/113117572512341448928?authkey=Gv1sRgCKae1tjd9IaqVQ

November

Paul, Miles, Jim Hiltz, Jim MacLean

we discussed  several interesting things tonight:

Leo showed how to make a sanding disk from 3M pads embedded with carborundum powder using an epoxy that bonds leaving a flexible finish instead of a hard finish. (E 6000)

He discusses further the design of the new vase project.
Jim Hiltz had a good start made on his.
Leo went through the lathe setup for mounting the vase to profile it and then how to make a plywood base template to guide the router cut that will make the inlay.

Leo showed us a variety of hefty jogs he made to enable hollowing out a vase .

fall sessions

September 30/14

Paul, Miles, Rick and Jim

We started back to work on the jewellery box project. Some of us are a little behind !

Leo suggested we start a vase project for the fall using a new technique he has developed.

Jim asked that we have a session on sharpening carbide blades.

https://plus.google.com/photos/113117572512341448928/albums/6066730735823639377?authkey=CMKX0qqfyc-wtAE

September 30/14

Rick. Miles, Paul, Jim Hiltz

We decided to start a vase project with the inlay/relief work that Leo has been perfecting. leo distributed enough poplar stock to the four of us to start the glue up and preliminary turning.

We did not get around to starting the sharpening project yet: i.e. carbide blades and twist drills.

Last session for spring

Rick, Miles, Jim Hiltz, Chris, Paul, Brian

Continued work on the jewellery box project. Leo demonstrated the many jigs that are used to complete the box. Rick just about completed his. The rest of us are a little behind.

January 2014

Brian, J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Paul, Miles

We continued work on the jewelery box. Leo showed other jigs to glue in the strips and gave clamping tips. We  used a  hand plane and a scraper, profiled to make the curve on the strips, for the hinge side of the box. Use epoxy to glue in the strips. At the end the boxes will be sanded down flush. There is a special jig used to make the hinge holes.

Leo showed a new Acrylic lacquer from a company called Target. It bonds to itself  as opposed to layering. It finishes beautifully. It is good to spray on as well. It is a milky color. Leo is experimenting with it for various applications. 

The annual Lobster party is at Ricks on June 21, Saturday.

January 2014

Pot Pourrie night

Appril 22,2014
Jim Hiltz, Jim Maclean, Rick, Miles, Wilson, Chris, Paul

1 Jim MacLean brought in several agate stones and gave each of us one for the burnishing work on the vase.

2 Leo went through how to re-sharpen the end of a square drive bit or screw driver using the bench grinder. The trick is a small square block with a set screw in the center to brace the bit. Then bring each side into the side of the grinding wheel, rotating to do 4 sides Then use the square block to bring the tip into the edge of the wheel and rotate it four times. Use a light touch and keep it cool.

3 Leo went through the gold leaf technique a bit more. When you put the fish glue/sizing mixture into the groove, let it dry and then sand out the groove up to 2000 before applying the gold leaf. Dab water into the groove with a brush and then apply the gold leaf. Rub it in with your fnger. It will stick to the sizing because the water melts the fish glue a little.

4 Jewelery box project:

Use a knife or veneer saw to cut the veneer: 6 3/8 long by 5 1/4 wide

Place the pieces in hot water for 10 minutes or so so that they become plyable

Put the piece in the bending jig and clamp

After 5 to 10 minutes remove and use elastic or a small stick jig to retain the shape until the wood is dry. See the photos on the blog .

The small sticks needed are:

2 pieces 5 3/8 long x 1/2 inch wide x 3/16 thick

2 pieces 5 1/2 in long x 1/2 in x 3/8 in: theses are profiled. See the photos on the blog.

2 base pieces 2 1/2 inches long x 1/2 wide , also profiled

1 handle piece 2 1/2 inches long , proofiled like a bow tie!Leo let the members take home the bending jig to make a few more pieces and we will pass it along to each other.

January 2014

Nomenclature Taps and dies

Tap and Die Screw Thread Terminology

Taps and dies terminology for BSW BSF UNC UNF Metric BA BSB ME 32tpi 40 threads BSP BSPT NPT METP Whitform Special in righthand + Lefthand 

 Angle of Thread: Angle included between the side of the thread measured in an axial plane
 Basic Size: Theoretical or nominal standard size from which all variations are made
 Chamfer/Lead:
   For taps:- The taper at the thread end of a tap or the throat of the die, made by cutting away the crests of the first few threads is to distribute the work of cutting, over several threads and act as guide in starting the tap or die. The chamfer is relieved to facilitate cutting and the TAP is classed Taper(T), Second(S) or Bottoming(B), according to the length of chamfer, approximates are:
   Taper tap is 4^o per side (6 to 8 threads)
   Second tap 8^o per side (3.1/2 to 6 threads)
   Bottoming tap 22^o per side (1.1/2 to 2.1/2 threads)
 Note: The name ‘PLUG’ is commonly used to indicate a Bottoming tap. In America it is used to indicate a Second tap. To avoid confusion the terminology that should be used as stated by British Standard 949,1979 is ‘Bottoming’ tap
   For dies:  stamped-size side is 45^o   and   back side is 60^o
 Clearance Hole: Holes in the die that provide the cutting rake and chip clearance
 Cutting Edge: Leading edge of the land in the direction of rotation for cutting and which does the actual cutting.
 Crest: The top surface joining the two flanks of a thread
 Depth of Thread: The depth of thread, in profile is the distance between the crest and the root of the thread measured normal to the axis
 Effective Diameter: On a parallel screw thread the diameter of an imaginary cylinder which would pass through the threads at such points as to make width of the thread at these points equal
 Flute:   The grooves in the tap that provide the cutting rake and chip clearance
 Helix Angle:   The angle made by the helix of a thread at the pitch diameter with a plane perpendicular to the axis.  The helix angle increases continuously from the crest to the root of the thread
 Land:   That portion of the thread not cut away by the flutes or clearance holes.
 Land Width: The chordal width of the land between the cutting edge and the heel measured normal to the cutting edge
 Lead / Pitch:   Distance a screw thread advances axially in one complete turn. On a single thread the lead and pitch are identical
 Major Diameter:   Largest diameter on a parallel screw thread or tap. The term ‘Major Diameter’replaces the term ‘Full Diameter’as applied to the thread of a nut
 Minor Diameter:   Smallest diameter on a parallel screw thread or a tap. The term ‘Minor Diameter’ replaces the term ‘Core Diameter’ and ‘Root Diameter’as applied to the thread of a screw and also the term ‘Inside Diameter’ as applied to the thread of a nut
 Number of Threads / Tpi: The number of threads in a length of one inch (threads per inch)
 Tapping Drill Sizes: We will show you here how to calculate tapping-drill sizes: (generally)
For Metric (mm) threads a tapping-drill size is calculated by subtracting ‘pitch’ from diameter of the thread eg. for 4x.7mm thread: tapping-drill sizes is 4mm dia - .7 pitch = 3.3mm
For Imperial (inch) threads a tapping-drill size is calculated by subtracting ‘pitch’ from diameter of the thread eg. for 3/4 x 10 UNC thread is 3/4= .75 dia & 10 pitch=1/10 = 0.1 
Tapping-drill sizes is .75 dia - 0.1 pitch = 0.65  x 25.4 = 16.5mm    (Note: 25.4mm=1 inch)
 Tolerance:   Taps: General Dimensions to BSS 949 & American series NC NF NS to ASA standard -
                       Dies circular: Basic dimensions to BSS 1127 

http://donsnotes.com/home_garden/bolts-tap-sizes.html  shows taps and drill size  

September 7/13

Leo, Paul, Brian, Rick and Jim Hiltz spent a strenuous day preparing the Accacia wood for bowl turning.

This was a tree that had been on a property next to Leo's and which had been cut down by the owner.
We salvaged the large pieces and rolled them over to The Workshop.
We split them in halves and bagged them under a tarpaulin until we could begin work on them next session.

Rick, Chris, Jim Hiltz, Jim MacLean, Brian, Wilson, Miles.Paul

Leo spent a lot of time explaining the steps in gold leafing the vase:
Supplies needed:
Gesso, made from the following ingredients:
Yellow ochre pigment: Whiting (sifted limestone)
(Not much yellow is needed)
Fish glue
Good brushes
Gold leaf
Transfer paper for real gold leaf
Eraser (rubber)
Paper towel
Paint the vase: brush it on well: spend a long time at this and do several coats
Sand between coats using paint thinner on the sand paper: start at 320
Spray on lacquer
Cut out the grooves again to expose the wood
Brush on concrete bond: let dry
Brush on the yellow pigment:whiting , mixing it with bond: this gives a very hard surface
Sand out the groove and recoat
Then brush on fish glue (or sizing)
Let it dry
The gold leaf is brushed lightly with water and laid in the groove.
The water melts the fish glue!
Apply the goldleaf gingerly and press it down using a rubber
Let it dry
Can do a second layer
Then burnish with agate

Tips: 
Don’t use Tempura pigment for this project
Try to get turpentine to soak your brushes in: it is better than paint thinner
A good brush springs back after the paint stroke

Leo demonstrated how to cut thin veneer using two saw blades: the inside blade cuts: the outside blade is put on backwards: this prevents the blade from wandering and planes the wood.

First cut a veneer about 1/8 thickness
Then run this through the two blade set up.

Bring the blade close to the table insert edge: use a cardboard washer if necessary to get the teeth very close to the edge of the insert so the thin veneer does not drop down into the space

January 2014

Veneer making

February 25/14

Jim Hiltz, Jim Maclean, Chris, Miles, Brian, Wilson, Rick

We started work on the jewelery box project. Leo went over cutting up stock for veneer. Choose straight grain wood. Birch and Maple are best for this project.

Th thickness planer was used with a platform to carry in the thin strips.

Leo demonstrated how to use a thin kerf swedged blade on the table saw to rip. The teeth cut, whereas carbide teeth tend to push the wood and use a lot more power to accomplish the rip.

To rip a thin piece, dress the wood, run it through the blade, raising the blade gradually and turning the wood end for end to cut almost through.

Finish the job on the bandsaw. Make a cut across the end of the board on the table saw and this allows the band saw blade to get started more easily.

Rick showed a beautiful bowl he did on an irregular birch burl. He showed how to set legs on the irregular side and make the four legs level.

Leo challenged us to figure out this:

The earth revolves around the sun every  364 1/4 days but the year has 365 days.

How is this?

Rick, J Hiltz, J MacNeil, Wilson, Miles, Chris, Paul

Chris showed a vase he has started.

Miles showed a wooden carpenter’s square he made.

Paul showed a large pen project.

jim showed a vase project he is doing.

Leo went over the use of the concrete bond finish. He first applies the Envirotox epoxy. He then sands this off (It sands well). He then uses Durapro, a thicker one, and thins it with the regular masonry bond. Brush it on and for a smooth finish, brush lots until all the brush lines are gone. Re-coat as needed. For a rough vase project, he sands the uneven sides with a flap sander and a stiff wire brush.

Leo demonstrated a vase that is painted and gold leafed and we agreed to do such a project.

Leo demonstrated a jewelry box and we also agreed to make this.

Need veneer for this.

Make it from 5 1/2 inch  x 24 inch board.

Cut it down on the table saw and band saw and we will finish it on the thickness sander at Leo’s.

We need small bullet hinges for this project. 

January 2014

Potpourie

Paul,Jim Hiltz, Jim MacLean, Brian, Lawrence, Rick, Chris, Wilson Rudderham

Leo had several projects on:

Helped Brian work on his Accacia vase

Helped Rick mount a bowl 

Helped Paul study the Taig lathe and managed to get it working better than it was.

Discussed the use of Envirotex, a polymer type epoxy. It sands off very easily. Leo is testing it as a sealing finish at the moment.

Also Duraper (?) concrete bond is a good sealing agent

He discussed the Magalithic yard, an ancient measuring system.

We have to look that up!

http://www.robertlomas.com/megyard

January 14, 2014

Rick, Paul, Jim Hiltz, Jimmy MacLean, Chris, Lawrence, Miles

We discussed the time of the meeting and decided to stick with Tuesdays at 7 pm.
Miles has taken over as treasurer.

Leo discussed how to use a plumb bob to measure distances, for example when a bowl blank is mounted on a lathe and you want to measure the distance from the face to the back of the bowl. Calipers are too awkward for this job.


The lads continued to work on various projects:

Rick--a birch burl

Leo discussed various ways to mount an irregularly shaped piece so as not to mar it. Rick plans on making three legs on the bark side of his burl.

Miles--a vase

Miles turned out the central part of the vase so as it would collapse inward as it dries.

Paul--Plumb Bob

Leo decided to start the metal lathe workshop.
Paul began the session by setting up to turn a plumb bob.
Leo discussed the physics and astronomical aspects of a plumb bob

A plumb bob does not point directly to the earths center because the earth is rotating always and the bob lags behind  just a smidgen due to air friction.
Also the earth gyrates (wobbles) on its axis over time and so if a plumb bob is hung for a long time it will begin to slowly swing in a circle because of the earths wobble.