Paul had a long 1.5 x 1.5 inch bed support and asked how to match up a series of 26 drilled holes from the original (broken) piece, to the new piece
Leo suggested using dowel pins. This worked well.
Shawn brought a turned oak bowl-wood salvaged from a Louisbourg cannon mount. Leo showed how to use a wire cord to burn a decorative line near the top of the bowl, which highlights the turning
We discussed the wisdom of doing a Table project and everyone was interested in this. This involves making a small end table. The whole process brings many woodwork skills into play.
1 Decide on the dimensions: height, length and width of the top , drawer opening
2 Make a drawing -three projections of the project (Orthographic drawing)
3 Select the wood and make a material list eg 4 legs of 30 inches each would need 120 inches of that wood dimension (finished length )
Leo discussed the Golden Ratio (10/6) and Fibonacci number series: 1,2,3,5,8,13,21,34 etc ( the previous two numbers are added to get the next number). The Golden ration and Fibonacci series are seen in nature eg. length of the leaves on a fern, length of the bones in a man. The 10/6 dimensions seem to be most pleasing to the eye :eg the typical picture frames, desk and table tops use this ratio
Leo discussed filling wood
Cherry, Maple,Beech need no filling
Most other woods need filling as the grain pores are open
Shellac can be used to fill--(epoxy is good as well)
Sanding blocks made from layers of ceiling tile glued together work well
Apply a thin coat of shellac to the wood
(Use shellac flakes dissolved in Methyl hydrate in a 4:1 ratio -4 volumes of the methyl hydrate to 1 volume of the flakes)
Once dry, dab on methyl hydrate and sand the shellac layer until it begins to peel-roll
Then dab on Paint thinner and sand the rollings back into the wood to fill the grain
Do this repeatedly until the grain is filled
We began work on the table project.
Step 1 Sketch a design
Eg top 18x16,, drawer, leg shape
Step 2 Material list
Choose stock for top: 6-8% moisture content is best
Leo chose a large board of cherry and cut it into 18 inch pieces--three for the top
Flatten one side on the jointer, choosing grain direction to minimize tear out
Flatten the second side on the thickness planer again being careful with grain direction
Leo demonstrated a jig to use the jointer as a thicknesser..see photos:
When one side is flattened, run the board along the table saw to make a cut along the top and bottom edges; there will be a rough section left in the center; run the board along the sled jig to remove this section until that side is flat and it should be parrallel with the opposite face now.
Next joint the edges of the boards.
Place the first board “marked side” in to the fence and the next board “marked side” out so that any discrepency in the jointer fence is cancelled out as the boards meet.
When boards are planed, align them with the end grain patterns alternating up and down if possible but the main thing is to get the top surface matching for pattern and grain direction.
Line them up and draw a reference mark along the top so that they can be reassembled correctly.
Glue up the panel , making sure the edges are flat and the joints flush.
Pinch together one end of the panel with a clamp. If the opposite end separates, the joints are not good.
Leo demonstrated his new jig for bowl turning.
He went over carbide blades, describing microcrystalline manufacturing.
Leo described how a thickneser works.
There are rollers that drag the wood through and the cutter rotates on top of the board.
The rollers tend to tip the board as it enters and leaves, leaving snipe at both ends.
The best machines have four rollers..two at each end so that the board is kept level as it rides along two rollers on entry and again on exit. Click the picture below to see a sketch of what this means!
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| From Table project |
We need to make the panel and turn four legs by next session.
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| Table project |
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