Paul, Lawrence, Miles, Rick, J Hiltz, Robert
Lawrence collected some annual dues, which is $100.00
Miles brought some interesting books he recently purchased.
Discussion on the fall show, the flier, and a sign.
Leo has come up with a design for the sign which includes two large unfinished pieces..a bowl and a vase that will be mounted on top of the sign so that traffic going either way will spot it..
We need two sheets of plywood and some white sign board to make the letters.
Topic: Painting over an old piece that has voids and scales:
1 Scrape of the surface and then dust off the debris.Use a carbide scraper blade..Lee Valleey. Can be resharpened using diamond plates on Leo’s turntable grinder.: 3000-8000-10,000
2 Apply a coat of Acrylic Concrete bond..the white stuff.
3 Then apply a mixture (50:50) of the (water) paint you want plus the concrete bond. Trowel this layer smooth.
4 Sprinkle on filler: whiting or lime or portland cement and trowel this in to fill voids and valleys.
5 Spread on another coat of the 50:50 mixture and trowel this in to build up the defects.
6 Let dry
7 Sand lightly
8 Coat with acrylic paint of your choice
9 Once dry another coat of the concrete bond
Use methyl Hydrate to clean off the trowels, tools and your hands.
Next Leo took a big end of a telephone pole-Douglas Fir, for the vase part of the display.
This was chain sawn to a square end.
Then the centers were found on each end.
It will be mounted on the lathe for next sessionand turned to a shape.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
glueing anything to anything
just found this site that lists glues to use to glue things together. might be handy for someone. hope I've got the URL right. if not just Google search it
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Minutes
June 7,2011 Jimmy Mac, Chris, Paul, Robert, Miles
1 Firstly Leo discussed the compression chuck that we had made for hollow turning a vase. Paul had his and the process to align it correctly with the tail stock was reviewed:
Mount the plywood disc, which has been screwed to the faceplate and has had a hole drilled in it for the large bushing.
Screw this large bushing into the hole, which has been filled with eopxy.
The fit needs to be a bit loose.
Screw the small “split” bushing (2 inch) into the big one.
Mount a wooden turning into the 2 inch split bushing and center the opposite end to the tailstock.
Jam the tailstock against the assembly and lock it there until the epoxy has dried.
The result should be a chuck that aligns with the tailstock every time.
2 Next Leo discussed circular saw blades. They are not flat.
They have an area that has been “hammered”, resulting in a “wavy” blade.
When the saw revs up to full speed, this area actually flattens out due to centrifugal forces.
The blade will have a critical speed..at that speed it will begin to wobble out and shatter. This is not necessarily the fastest speed. This issue is more critical with large blades such as are used in saw mills.
3 Finishing:
A) Shellac
White shellac is bleeched orange shellac.
Shellac is best if flakes are freshly dissolved. Otherwise the mixture does deteriorate over time. There is a special solvent but alcohol is the original one.
Water and alccohol will blemish shellac so it is not a good finish for items that will be handled or table tops. Best for things like a grandfather clock or wall hanging.
Use a good brush. A good one will cost $200.00 or more! Artist shop brushes are good to use.
Finish sand the wood
Apply a layer of shellac with a brush. At first the result is wavy ridges.
Keep the brush moving back and forth for a long time to smooth the finish. Continuous brushing causes the shellac to meld better (it dissolves into itself so to speak) and eventually the finish is smooth and free of wavy lines.
Let the finish dry and harden (24 hours).
Sand it off.
Then you can stain the shellac!
Apply a layer of oil stain with a foam brush.
Wipe if off with a cloth.Then use a clean dry brush and brush repeatedly , wiping off the brush periodically, until you have an even stain. This is “dry brushing”.
Once the stain is even, Let dry and harden (24 hrs)..
Overcoat with another layer of Shellac.
VERY IMPORTANT!
This time use one brush stroke only.
Do not go back over this stroke.
If you missed a spot wait until everything is dry before coating that spot.
Dry 24 hours for maximum hardness.
You can repeat the whole process to darken the stain.
Last coat is the shellac which is rubbed and polished.
A water based finish like Acrylic can be used in the same fashion as the Shellac process.
Apply finish, using same tecchnique of brushing repeatedly until smoothness has resulted.
Dry
Sand
Apply Stain, wipe it off, and using “dry brush” technique, smooth and even the application.
Repeat the finish layer once dry and sand again.
Re-apply more stain to darken..dry brush technique.
Last coat is the finish and then polish it up.
Coloured Lacquers are another option but they take “Leo-like” skill to apply evenly.
(Not for amateurs)
Paul had two small vases that were stained using aniline green, which highlighted the grain of the ash but the end grain in the top recess, where the candle goes, was blotchy. Leo suggested using a red lacquer to coat the inside of the vases.
The result was striking!
Learning Points:
Shellac is NOT resistant to water or alcohol.
“Dry brushing” is a way to get an even stain.
Keep brushing until you have a smooth result in tone and eveness and USE a good brush.
“Layering” is a technique of applying finish, applying stain, overcoating with more finish, applying more stain to darken and repeating the process until the colour is achieved.
One can’t apply Lacquer over shellac
TIP
Wrap your brushes in tin to preserve shape. The tin is folded around the business end (bristles) of the brush.
4 Leo went over how to hand sharpen an auger bit, which Miles brought in.
File the blade part, the outside round and the spur, using a hand file.
We agreed to meet again in two weeks to get the wood from the Kiln.
1 Firstly Leo discussed the compression chuck that we had made for hollow turning a vase. Paul had his and the process to align it correctly with the tail stock was reviewed:
Mount the plywood disc, which has been screwed to the faceplate and has had a hole drilled in it for the large bushing.
Screw this large bushing into the hole, which has been filled with eopxy.
The fit needs to be a bit loose.
Screw the small “split” bushing (2 inch) into the big one.
Mount a wooden turning into the 2 inch split bushing and center the opposite end to the tailstock.
Jam the tailstock against the assembly and lock it there until the epoxy has dried.
The result should be a chuck that aligns with the tailstock every time.
2 Next Leo discussed circular saw blades. They are not flat.
They have an area that has been “hammered”, resulting in a “wavy” blade.
When the saw revs up to full speed, this area actually flattens out due to centrifugal forces.
The blade will have a critical speed..at that speed it will begin to wobble out and shatter. This is not necessarily the fastest speed. This issue is more critical with large blades such as are used in saw mills.
3 Finishing:
A) Shellac
White shellac is bleeched orange shellac.
Shellac is best if flakes are freshly dissolved. Otherwise the mixture does deteriorate over time. There is a special solvent but alcohol is the original one.
Water and alccohol will blemish shellac so it is not a good finish for items that will be handled or table tops. Best for things like a grandfather clock or wall hanging.
Use a good brush. A good one will cost $200.00 or more! Artist shop brushes are good to use.
Finish sand the wood
Apply a layer of shellac with a brush. At first the result is wavy ridges.
Keep the brush moving back and forth for a long time to smooth the finish. Continuous brushing causes the shellac to meld better (it dissolves into itself so to speak) and eventually the finish is smooth and free of wavy lines.
Let the finish dry and harden (24 hours).
Sand it off.
Then you can stain the shellac!
Apply a layer of oil stain with a foam brush.
Wipe if off with a cloth.Then use a clean dry brush and brush repeatedly , wiping off the brush periodically, until you have an even stain. This is “dry brushing”.
Once the stain is even, Let dry and harden (24 hrs)..
Overcoat with another layer of Shellac.
VERY IMPORTANT!
This time use one brush stroke only.
Do not go back over this stroke.
If you missed a spot wait until everything is dry before coating that spot.
Dry 24 hours for maximum hardness.
You can repeat the whole process to darken the stain.
Last coat is the shellac which is rubbed and polished.
A water based finish like Acrylic can be used in the same fashion as the Shellac process.
Apply finish, using same tecchnique of brushing repeatedly until smoothness has resulted.
Dry
Sand
Apply Stain, wipe it off, and using “dry brush” technique, smooth and even the application.
Repeat the finish layer once dry and sand again.
Re-apply more stain to darken..dry brush technique.
Last coat is the finish and then polish it up.
Coloured Lacquers are another option but they take “Leo-like” skill to apply evenly.
(Not for amateurs)
Paul had two small vases that were stained using aniline green, which highlighted the grain of the ash but the end grain in the top recess, where the candle goes, was blotchy. Leo suggested using a red lacquer to coat the inside of the vases.
The result was striking!
Learning Points:
Shellac is NOT resistant to water or alcohol.
“Dry brushing” is a way to get an even stain.
Keep brushing until you have a smooth result in tone and eveness and USE a good brush.
“Layering” is a technique of applying finish, applying stain, overcoating with more finish, applying more stain to darken and repeating the process until the colour is achieved.
One can’t apply Lacquer over shellac
TIP
Wrap your brushes in tin to preserve shape. The tin is folded around the business end (bristles) of the brush.
4 Leo went over how to hand sharpen an auger bit, which Miles brought in.
File the blade part, the outside round and the spur, using a hand file.
We agreed to meet again in two weeks to get the wood from the Kiln.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Minutes
Paul, Robert, Peter, Mike, wilson, Jimmy MacLean, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris
Leo went over the use of the acrylic concrete bond and how to use it for painted surfaces:
Apply it as a prime coat
Apply paint right away right over the wet acrylic
Let dry and you can add a second coat of the paint for a good finish
One can use fillers wth this acrylic to fill voids.
If the void is in a wet area, use Portland cement as this will dry in wet environment.
Else use Lime (fertilizer) as a filler if the area being filled is in a dry envoronment.
Leo then discussed how the kiln process works.
To get precise measurements of moisture content:
Cut off an end sample of the stock;
Bake it in an oven and periodically weigh it untill there is no change in weight;
It is then 100% dry
Eg first weight was 2 pounds, finish weight is 1 pound, then 1 pound of water was removed.
If you want , say 10% moisture content, stop the drying process before it gets to a weight of 1 pound, ie the weight will be one 1.1 pounds(10% of one pound is 0.1 pounds, which is 1.6 ounces)
CASE HARDENING
Case hardening is a condition of internal stress in wood due most commonly to overly rapid drying and/or improper conditioning after drying. A casehardened board cannot be visually distinguished from any other board, but they can be VERY dangerous in rip-sawing, particularly with radial arm saw (ANY ripping with a RAS is somewhat dangerous). What happens is that the stresses cause the saw kerf to close up and bind against the blade on the outfeed side. On a table saw this can cause kickback and on a RAW it can cause kickback AND it can also cause the plank to rise up on the outfeed side of the cut and get chewed up instead of making a clean cut. By cutting off a small sample piece and bandsawing a long slot along the grain as shown below, you can tell whether or not a plank is case hardened, BUT ... be aware that case hardening is very localized, so testing one end of a plank doesn't tell you anything about the middle or the other end.
Most kiln dried wood will be around 6% moisture content
Leo gave each of us a bowl blank to make something.
We decided to do a session on lacquer spray and stain technique next.
Leo went over the use of the acrylic concrete bond and how to use it for painted surfaces:
Apply it as a prime coat
Apply paint right away right over the wet acrylic
Let dry and you can add a second coat of the paint for a good finish
One can use fillers wth this acrylic to fill voids.
If the void is in a wet area, use Portland cement as this will dry in wet environment.
Else use Lime (fertilizer) as a filler if the area being filled is in a dry envoronment.
Leo then discussed how the kiln process works.
To get precise measurements of moisture content:
Cut off an end sample of the stock;
Bake it in an oven and periodically weigh it untill there is no change in weight;
It is then 100% dry
Eg first weight was 2 pounds, finish weight is 1 pound, then 1 pound of water was removed.
If you want , say 10% moisture content, stop the drying process before it gets to a weight of 1 pound, ie the weight will be one 1.1 pounds(10% of one pound is 0.1 pounds, which is 1.6 ounces)
CASE HARDENING
Case hardening is a condition of internal stress in wood due most commonly to overly rapid drying and/or improper conditioning after drying. A casehardened board cannot be visually distinguished from any other board, but they can be VERY dangerous in rip-sawing, particularly with radial arm saw (ANY ripping with a RAS is somewhat dangerous). What happens is that the stresses cause the saw kerf to close up and bind against the blade on the outfeed side. On a table saw this can cause kickback and on a RAW it can cause kickback AND it can also cause the plank to rise up on the outfeed side of the cut and get chewed up instead of making a clean cut. By cutting off a small sample piece and bandsawing a long slot along the grain as shown below, you can tell whether or not a plank is case hardened, BUT ... be aware that case hardening is very localized, so testing one end of a plank doesn't tell you anything about the middle or the other end.
Most kiln dried wood will be around 6% moisture content
Leo gave each of us a bowl blank to make something.
We decided to do a session on lacquer spray and stain technique next.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Minutes May 10/11
Most recent meeting minutes:
Attendance Naq, Paul, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Peter, Mike, Robert, Chris
Leo showed how to repair broken bowl blanks using wood clamp jigs epoxied to the round sides of the wood.
Leo described how wood dries out naturally and by Kiln.
Air drying can get to around 12% moisture but rarely lower.
Kiln dry can go down to 6%.
Moisture content of ambient wood around the shop..ie after years is around 8% on average.
Jim Hiltz demonstrated the McNaughton coring system on a large blank.
Attendance Naq, Paul, J Hiltz, Miles, Chris, Peter, Mike, Robert, Chris
Leo showed how to repair broken bowl blanks using wood clamp jigs epoxied to the round sides of the wood.
Leo described how wood dries out naturally and by Kiln.
Air drying can get to around 12% moisture but rarely lower.
Kiln dry can go down to 6%.
Moisture content of ambient wood around the shop..ie after years is around 8% on average.
Jim Hiltz demonstrated the McNaughton coring system on a large blank.
 |
| May10/11 meeting |
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Meeting
April 26/11
Rick, Paul, Robert, Miles, Lawrence, Wilson, J Hiltz, J Maclean,Naq
We discussed the fall show;
Date Nov 4,5,6
Friday-9-5
Sat-10-7
Sunday 12-5
We discussed insurance.
Decided to create an entry flier saying Enter at your own risk, Children under care of adults, Do not touch machinery etc
Leo agreed to do a large platter out of a figured Maple blaock which Paul brought along.
This will be donated to Hospital Foundation to sell tickets. Draw to take place at the show.
Leo took a look at the McNaughton coring system.
It needs some figuring out as to how it works.
Leo demonstrated methods for makin a bowl from wood, leaving the bark on.
Pictures tell it all.
Masonary bond (an Acrylic was used on the bark side of the piece.
He showed how to drill holes for legs..using three legs to support the piece.
Leo discussed modifying the steady rest which we made last year, with O-rings to lessen vibration.
Rick, Paul, Robert, Miles, Lawrence, Wilson, J Hiltz, J Maclean,Naq
We discussed the fall show;
Date Nov 4,5,6
Friday-9-5
Sat-10-7
Sunday 12-5
We discussed insurance.
Decided to create an entry flier saying Enter at your own risk, Children under care of adults, Do not touch machinery etc
Leo agreed to do a large platter out of a figured Maple blaock which Paul brought along.
This will be donated to Hospital Foundation to sell tickets. Draw to take place at the show.
Leo took a look at the McNaughton coring system.
It needs some figuring out as to how it works.
Leo demonstrated methods for makin a bowl from wood, leaving the bark on.
Pictures tell it all.
Masonary bond (an Acrylic was used on the bark side of the piece.
He showed how to drill holes for legs..using three legs to support the piece.
Leo discussed modifying the steady rest which we made last year, with O-rings to lessen vibration.
 |
| April/11 Meeting |
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Coring meeting
Paul, Wayne, Rick, Dan Omoto (guest), Chris, J Hiltz, J MacLean, Mike, Wilson, Lawrence, Robert
We discussed the birdseye bowl project again.
We have eight large blanks.
The total cost of the log was $250.00.
Paul invited members to speak for a blank and Leo suggested that those who want one must do the coring procedure.
The cost per blank would be $32.00. This should yield three good bowl blanks.
The result was :
Paul-1blank
J Hiltz-2 blanks
Rick-1 blank
Lawrence-1 blank
Leo-2 blanks
Chris-1 blank
Paul discussed Norm Smiths wood, which is for sale @ $250.00
This includes a good supply of wood including burls, boards, logs and is well worth the cash (according to Paul). We had at least four takers who will by and divide the wood.
Paul will purchase the wood and we will divide it up as need be.
Leo went over the layout for doing the coring procedure on the large bowls.
One has to measure the diameter and depth of the bowl to begin with.
Then, lay out a drawing on large cardboard and trace the arcs needed to core out concentric bowls in order to get usable material.
Leo expects everyone who has a blank to do this drawing for next meeting.
Rick announced that we will have a business meeting next Tuesday evening to cover
upcoming issues:
Medical Arts Building
336 Kings Road Sydney
(Across from the old St Rita Hospital site)
7 pm April 19/11
Top of the staris
Dr. Paul Murphys office
We discussed the birdseye bowl project again.
We have eight large blanks.
The total cost of the log was $250.00.
Paul invited members to speak for a blank and Leo suggested that those who want one must do the coring procedure.
The cost per blank would be $32.00. This should yield three good bowl blanks.
The result was :
Paul-1blank
J Hiltz-2 blanks
Rick-1 blank
Lawrence-1 blank
Leo-2 blanks
Chris-1 blank
Paul discussed Norm Smiths wood, which is for sale @ $250.00
This includes a good supply of wood including burls, boards, logs and is well worth the cash (according to Paul). We had at least four takers who will by and divide the wood.
Paul will purchase the wood and we will divide it up as need be.
Leo went over the layout for doing the coring procedure on the large bowls.
One has to measure the diameter and depth of the bowl to begin with.
Then, lay out a drawing on large cardboard and trace the arcs needed to core out concentric bowls in order to get usable material.
Leo expects everyone who has a blank to do this drawing for next meeting.
Rick announced that we will have a business meeting next Tuesday evening to cover
upcoming issues:
Medical Arts Building
336 Kings Road Sydney
(Across from the old St Rita Hospital site)
7 pm April 19/11
Top of the staris
Dr. Paul Murphys office
Sunday, April 10, 2011
work meeting
Paul and medical resident Dan Omoto spent the morning at leo's preparing the last of the birdseye blanks for coring.
We learned a lot of how to to use the cross slide mechanism.
We learned a lot of how to to use the cross slide mechanism.
 |
| BirdseyeDay |
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Work meeting
Jim Hiltz, Paul, Rick and Chris met at Leo's to complete the preliminary turning of the birdseye logs so that we could get on with the coring process at Tuesday's meeting.
All eight pieces are now done.
All eight pieces are now done.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Most recent meeting minutes:
Regular meeting attendance:
Peter, Chris, Mike, Rick, Wilson, Robert, Naq, Paul, Miles
The members brought in the candle holder designs that were assigned at the last meeting. Everyone seemed to have figured it out.
Work went ahead then on the birdseye logs, rough turning one and getting a third ready for lathe mounting.
Leo went over the coring idea and showed us the spider chucks that wll be used to mount these large blanks to the lathe.
Regular meeting attendance:
Peter, Chris, Mike, Rick, Wilson, Robert, Naq, Paul, Miles
The members brought in the candle holder designs that were assigned at the last meeting. Everyone seemed to have figured it out.
Work went ahead then on the birdseye logs, rough turning one and getting a third ready for lathe mounting.
Leo went over the coring idea and showed us the spider chucks that wll be used to mount these large blanks to the lathe.
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