December 15/09 Meeting

December 15, 2009 Paul, Rick, Chris, Lawrence, Miles

Leo reviewed the bucket math. The best way to calculate the width of the staves is this way:

Lay out the circles as before..outer circle (top) and inner circle(bottom)
Calculate the circumference of the circles (pi x diameter)
Subtract the circumference of the smaller one from the larger one.
Divide this difference by the number of staves and this will be the difference in the width of the top of the stave compared to the bottom.
Lay these measurements out accurately on the taper jig, cut all the staves, and then procede with the beveling on the jointer.

Alternate method:

Cut the staves on the taper jig.
Put them all together to form a bucket using masking tape to hold them.
Then accurately measure the slope of the bucket.
Use this slope angle in the formula that was previously explained to get the correct bevel angle.
Proceed to bevel each side of the staves and glue them up.

Leo reminded us of the dangers of the workshop. A man was recently found dead beside the lathe. There was a bowl on the lathe that had blown and a broken cutting tool. Something hit him in the head and he died.

Leo and the group joined forces to help Paul figure out a way to flatten his benchtop, which has a wind. With some tinkering, it looks like the top can be salvaged and flattened to a serviceable state.

Plane a benchtop

December 1/09 Minutes

December 1, 2009 Rick, Paul, J Hiltz, J MacLean, Naq, Miles, Wilson, Lawrence, Roy


Mr. Hiltz and Rick and Chris have made good progress on the bucket, most with the turning completed.
Paul started a new one and has yet to turn it round.
Leo Discussed making a long straight edge.
Use two boards of equal thickness and width.
Joint each edge of each board on the jointer until all faces of each board can be interchanged with a perfect joint fit. All edges must all fit perfectly when aligned.
Leo discussed jointing (flattening) the top of a workbench.
Make the straight edges.
Flatten the end members first..

Then lay the straight edge lengthways down the length of the table along the first board suspended on two blocks of identical height. Use a feeler block and slide it under the straight edge and the first board and plane off any high spots on the bench top. Repeat this process for each board until the top is flattened. The feeler block is tapered slightly to insert it under the straight edge and a pencil mark across it is used as the register for exact alignment.

A wooden plane with a slightly concave sole works best for this job.

Minutes November 17/09

November 17,2009 Rick, J Hiltz, J MacLean, Paul, Wislon, Roy, Chris

More work on the bucket.
All hands having trouble establishing correct jointer angle.
Paul’s bucket was too thin to turn as it was out of round and to turn it on the lathe would sacrifice too much wood.
Rick was missing a few staves.
Jim Hiltz's was oval in shape, as was his abdomen.

Minutes Nov 3/09

Nov 3/09 Rick, J Hiltz, J MacLean,Chris,Paul, Mles

Drawing a circle and dividing it into 5 segments: See phooto in the album

Draw circle

Draw diameter C-F

Draw A-B using radius and starting at point G

Draw D-C (E-D =C-D)

Use E-C to mark off 5 segments on the circumference

Leo reviewed the math involved in the staved bucket project.Using a stop mechanism behind the jointer fence is a way to get accurate angles.

(See photos)

Leo reviewed some complicated material on measurement standards dating back before we ever established this woodwork club!

Leo demonstrated the cutting tool made from an Allen wrench for cutting the groove in the bucket bottom.

Leo demonstrated some jigs he made up to support the bucket for the turning process.

Tapered Bucket (cooper) project

Bulletin

Next meeting is Tuesday, November 3,2009.

This is a week earlier due to unavoidable circumstances .

Minutes October 27/09

October 27,20009

Miles, Lawrence, Paul, Frank Chiasson, Jim Hiltz,Chris

We reviewed the angles and formulae for the project again.

Leo talked us through the process of turning the bucket on the lathe once it is glued up.

A temporary top and bottom will be glued in place to provide for mounting with the chuck.

The outside will be turned round .

A flat will be cut to allow the steady rest to be placed.

The one end will be removed and the inside will be rounded.

Another temporary piece of wood will be used to remount the piece on the chuck from the inside and the outside will be rounded and lastly a groove for the bottom will be made.

An allen wrench has hard steel and can be shaped into a cutter to do the groove.

Paul's planer..click photo to see album and then click slide show

Paul's Planer...before and after

Minutes October 13/09

From Tapered Bucket (cooper) project

October 13, 20090 Paul, Rick, Miles, Lawrence

Leo re-explained the math of doing the stave taper, slope and bevel angles of the bucket project.

eg for a 32 stave bucket:

360/32 is 11.25 degrees;

each side is then 11.25/2=5.625 degrees

5.625/90 (degrees)=.0625

.0625 x 80 (for a 10 degree slope) =5 degrees

.0625 x 85 (for a 5 degree slope) =5.3125 degrees (or 90-5.3125, which is 84.6875 degrees)

These are the bevel angles for each stave

To gage the thickness of a turning, use an inside caliper, then an outside caliper at the same level, subtract and half this to get the thickness of the turning.

Tapered bucket (Click for a video)

September 29,, 2009

Attendance: Chris, Paul, Rick, Hiltz, Miles

Leo demonstrated how to calculate the angles needed to make a tapered bucket..the next project.

The first step is to make a drawing of the project.

Draw a large circle representing the largest diameter (top) of the bucket and inside this draw a smaller circle, representing the smaller diameter(base) of the bucket.

Draw diameters representing the total number of segments you want: eg two diameters is four segments, four is eight etc.

Measure out the width of the segments from the diagram.

Cut these a little over sized using a taper jig (10 degrees)

The jointer is used to do the bevels.

Two passes on each side generally do.

Calculating the bevel angle:

360/# segments

eg 360/24=15

15/2 is 7.5 degrees (each side)

7.5/90 is 0.083

The slope will be 10 degrees

0.083 x 10 = .83

The angle needed is 8.3 degrees

See utube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3z4dMBNCSAg

Also this :

The chord of a segment of a curve =2 times radius times sin (central angle /2)
Say the bucket top is 16” inside diameter with 12 staves
A circle is 360 degrees, so the central angle for each stave is 30 degrees (360/12)
The radius is 8” or half the 16” inside diameter.
So, the inside measurement of each stave top is 2 times 8 times sin (30/2) = 4.14”
Say the bucket bottom is 12” inside diameter. The central angle is still 30 degrees.
The inside measurement of each stave bottom is 2 times 6 times sin (30/2) = 3.11”

The stave angle is half the central angle or 15 degrees for 12 staves.

Angles calculator

Rick MacDonald brought this web site to my attention.

May 26/09 meeting

May 26/09

J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Chris, Paul

Tonight we completed the drilling and tapping of the holes for the end pieces. We hand tapped the holes and then tapped in the half inch threaded rod using soap as a lubricant. File off a groove on opposite sides of the end of the rod. This allows it to cut and enter cleanly.

Once the rod is threaded through the pieces, one end had a bolt welded on and the other end two bolts so that it can be disassembled if need be.

Leo discussed the strength of various thread patterns.

Planer Jig

This is from Fine Woodworking Magazine and is a variation on Leo's jig for using the thickness planer as a jointer.

Just click on the title Planer Jig to view the article.

I have a subscription to the online version and can view the articles and download them so if you come across something you want me to download, speak up.

PFM

May 19, 2009 meeting

Attendance: Miles, Jim Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Bob, Lawrence, Paul

We continued to work on the boring jig. Leo has made more refinements on the prototype. (The mock-up was the original one he made and demonstrated for ua a few meetings ago)

Jim Hiltz and Rick have done acceptable work on their project but Paul managed to make a “balls” of his. He cut the platform too short and has to start all over. Instead of sympathy and understanding, he received mockery from some of the lads and was left feeling abashed. So much for camaraderie! (Only Lawrence Martell showed empathy. Perhaps Lawrence had the experience of cutting a few pieces too short in is time).

The overall length of the platform is about 25 inches and it is 11 inches wide and at least one inch thick.

Cut a dado 2 1/2 inches in from each end to accept uprights (1 3/8 thick) and cut tenons on the ends of the uprights to fit snugly in the dado. Do this carefully.

Mark a point in the center of the board 1 1/2 inches in from the dado on one end and then swing an ark 13 1/8 inches up to the opposite end and drill this arc out with 1 / 2 inch holes to create a curved arc. The arc ends about 2 inches in from the side edges. Drill the first marked point to 1/2 inch also.

Drill a series (see photo) of 1/4 inch holes along each edge, spacing them about 11/16 inches apart on center and starting 1 1/2 in in from the edge for the first one.

Use a jig on the drill press to include a pin to insure that each hole is identically separated from the rest.

Flip the board to drill the holes on the opposite end.

The upright will have a through hole bored across its length ( 1 3/4 inches in from the tenon end) to accept the threaded rod. This hole is bored at 7/16 inches (the hole is then threaded to 1/2 inches).

A special jig is used on the press to drill the hole part way through one side, flip it and do the other side and then finish it with a hand drill. It consists of a welded iron right angle brace, against which the workpiece is clamped to make sure that it is 90 degrees to the bit travel. (see photos)

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Lay the test piece on top of the assembled workpiece/squaring jig and play with it until the bit enters correctly when the piece is flipped end to end.Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

See photos.

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

From May 19 meeting

May 12/09 meeting

Attendance:

Naq, Murphy, Miles, Jim MacLean, J Hiltz, Chris, Rick, Wilson,

Leo developed the plan for an improved version of the boring jig for the lathe.

It is hard to explain in words so check the photos for some appreciation of how it is made.

Leo showed how to use the drill press to make an arc shaped groove into a piece of wood, using a brad point bit to cut a series of holes along the arc and the Forstner bit to clean up the holes and finally using an end mill bit to further improve the result.

Leo discussed how to sneak up on cuts on the table saw..eg for cutting a dado and an end tenon.

Leo revisited the jig for turning a thickness planer into a jointer....see the March 24/09 minutes for a comment about this.

Leo cut each of us a piece of birch to get started on the jig.

Jim Hiltz spoiled Paul's piece by burning the end on the saw and refused to exchange his "good" piece for the one he assigned to Paul. He certainly was a bad sport tonight.

Minutes..May 5, 2009

May 5, 2009

Attendance: Paul, J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Miles, J MacLean, Chris

We discussed the summer lobster party.

Paul would host this but can't until the latter part of August (by orders from Jo-Anne).

Those present felt that we could live with this agenda.

Leo invented a mechanical mechanism made of wood to use as a boring bar for the hollow turnings projects.

He went through the process of making it and then used it to turn the inside of the vase...Ricks. See photos for what the design is like.

Tip: When turning a thin plate, the piece will wobble as you turn the outside edge . To avoid this, turn the back first and finish it in the usual fashion; then reverse it; turn the outer 1/3 as thin as you want it, leaving the inner circle good and thick to provide substance to avoid wobble; then turn the inside.

Tip: A clutch can be used with your cutting tool to do a "facing", ie make a flat surface on the turning.:eg in facing a thin piece. This consists of a hollow ring (metal or wood) with a plate on the side of it about 3 or 4 inches long. The hollow in the center is just a little bigger than the gouge. When the side plate is squeezed, it secures the cutter tightly and provides rigidity to bring the tool across the workpiece evenly.

Minutes

Attendees: Rick, J Hiltz, Paual, Naq, Bob, Miles, Chris

Mr. James Hiltz, Miles, Rick, and Paul had completed some work on the project.....the body was glued up and the top/bottom pieces were done and ready to be profiled.

Leo demonstrated how to turn the outside of the urn body on the metal lathe.
He then set up the wood lathe and turned the inside of the body (of Paul’s) using the steady rest we made previously this year and his rigid heavy cutter fed into the interior of the piece by a handscrew apparatus.

Very productive workshop tonight.

Jatoba.....Brazilian Cherry

http://www.advantagelumber.com/jatoba.htm

Minutes April 7, 2009

April 7/09

Attendance:Paul, Rick, Miles, Joe, Chris, Jimmy MacNeil, Robert

Leo reviewed the formula for rough estimate of volume of a cask:
It is D*H/20, which give a close estimate of the volume in gallons
D is diameter, H is height
Paul brought in a Stanley #50 combination plane and Leo demonstrated how to sharpen the beading blade and how to make a wooden fence to make it more versatile.
We then discussed the Urn project.
Once the staves are glued up, we start on shaping the top and bottom.
The solid piece is mounted on the lathe between centers and rounded.
Then a foot is cut on each end:
The piece will be sectioned into two parts, one for the top and one for the bottom.

Learning point: A cylinder , once rounded on the lathe, can be smoothed using a hand plane on an angle with the lathe running.

Leo then demonstrated several of his home built contraptions for deep vase turning using heavy steel tubes and rods. Most ingenious.

वुड supplies

Ranald Ross (Margaree) is coming into Sydney this week with some wood for me. He can take some wood in if anyone wants to see his products. Let me know what to ask him for.

Coxheath Trail-Sample photos

Here's a few photos of the trip up the trail, done on Sunday April 5/09.
It is very pretty and worth a few hours of exercise.
I think we should go up now, and again when the trees start to bud to get some close up shots of the process, and then again when the leaves are on and again in the fall.
One or two photos are out of focus...I was distracted by the young lass that I met on the way.
I took a movie of her but she bound me not to show it.
Too bad for you lads!

Not many trees have IDs but I can get someone from lands and Forrests to give a guided tour.
Shall I do that??
No charges for that as far as I know.

outting

There is a trail in Coxheath near the Blacketts lake turn.

It goes up the mountain. People can park in the church parking lot.

The Coxheath Wilderness Association has scouted this out and marked trees with ID.

Anyone interested in scoutting it out with me to see if the club might want to do it?

Paul Murphy

Barrels, casks, and other containers

http://www.math.nmsu.edu/~breakingaway/Lessons/barrels_casks_and_flasks/Barrels_Casks.html

I would say that this is what Leo was referring to.

Take the average of the diameters of the barrel that you know and then , Volume =Pi*(average R)squared x height
If one does this in inches the result is in cubic inches so convert this to gallons
f you did it in feet the conversion is different.......cubic feet to gallons




So if a barrel had a diameter of 3 feet in the middle and 2 feet on top
that average is 3+2 divided by 2 which is 2.5 so use this diameter to get the rough estimate of volume

Paul Murphy

Introduction to Calculus

http://www.intmath.com/Calculus/Calculus-intro.php

Paul Murphy

Minutes March 24/09

Attendance: Joe, Paul, Chris, Wilson, Naq, Miles, Robert, Roy

Leo discussed drill bit sizes and types. Twist bits come in inch sizes eg. 1/32,
1/16, 1/8 etc
Sizes in between this are given numericals from 1 to 80
1 is about 7/32
Sizes in between this are measured in Letters from A to d
Leo went over the method of sharpening various bits.
The Drill Doctor is a gadget that can be used to sharpen twist drill bits.

Measuring the volume of a barrel:

The barrel sides are formed by the arcs of a complete circle on each side.
Magenta line is the height H
Green is the barrel diameter (the radius of the circle that forms it )
Formula( H x D)/2 = gives volume in quarts
Divide by 4 to get volume in gallons


Next we continued on the Urn project.
11.25• angles x 4 is 45 degrees

45•

When making the strips for the body of the urn, use this trick. Cut one extra strip and use it to play with the angle .
The angle subtended by glueing two short pieces of the strips of wood together should make a 45 degree angle. Use this trick to make fine adjustments in the stave belly strips that you cut : i.e change the angle of the saw blade until you can make a 45 degree by gluing the two together.
Then cut all the strips on the saw and glue them up as was demonstrated at the last class. Plane the sides in the sled we made.
Leo helped fix Paul’s project pieces so that they glued together correctly.
Leo demonstrated how to make your thickness planer be a jointer:
Make a platform that is 12 inches wide (if you have a 12 inch planer. The best way to do that is use a core box technique of gluing it up so that it will stay flat over time and not warp.
This platform is used to lay the workpiece board on. Use shims to steady the workpiece. Tape the shims in place. Once it is fairly solidly arranged, run it through the thicknesser and you will have jointed the top face of your board.

Styrated sand paper is best for sanding finishes like laquer.

outting

I have contacted Clarence Barrett, a forester with Parks Canada (Ingonish National Park) to do a walk through the forrest to learn about tree identification. Presently there is a ton of snow in the woods so this would not be until at least a months time.

If it goes ahead, I would appreciate suggestions about how we might reward Clarence for his time.

Paul Murphy

Jigs

Jigs

If you have an interesting jig to showcase, send a photo of it and a
description of what it is for.

email

You can send information to the web site at this address

cbwoodcrafters.email@blogger.com

Ths email will appear as a post

Chris Caldwell

Chris Caldwell is another gentle giant...there are a disproportunate number of them in the club !

Chris is a Golden Clubber..member since the start.

He is a millwright.

He never misses a meeting.

He is a prince of a man.

His retreat is MacKinnons Harbor..you have to see it to believe it.

Meeting March 3, 2009

The meeting tonight was a business meeting, held in the school on Hornes Road. Thanks to Rick for arranging this with the school.

Attendance: Miles, Murphy, Leo, Rick, Lawrence, Jimmy MacLean, Jim Hiltz, Chris Caldwell, Roy Troke

Jim Hitz presented a letter that has been received from the Nova Scotia School of Crafts. We have been invited to host a display of crafts in the Lyceum on George Street in 2010. The display would be hosted for one month. It was proposed that each member have a few pieces to display. Another idea was to have a display on the evolution of a large bowl, starting from choosing the tree and working to the end creation. A slide show or video are other options. A display of curious tools was also suggested.

The membership agreed that we are interested and Jim will contact the School and submit our agreement. We agreed on the $25.00 submission fee.
Serious work has to be done toward this project.

Lawrence noted that we have a substantial bank balance and all dues are up to date.

The next item was a presentation of the new web page by Paul who stumbled through this haphazardly.

People seemed to think that this is a worthwhile thing and that we should endorse it. Each member had an opportunity to play around with a computer terminal to see how to navigate through the site.

Paul demonstrated the elements of the page, how to navigate through it, and also went through (rather quickly) the development side of the page. The good thing is that the whole thing is absolutley free. The template that is presently being used is good because it it easy to read (ie the color scheme), and if you click on the right hand bottom corner of your screen page , you can drag the page to the widest view that your screen allows and the page elements will expand to fit this.

This has great potential, including the possibility of making a few dollars if we permit advertising.
It also has the potential of allowing those of us who make a living out of our hobby to advertise their work.

We need ideas on what elements to include on the site, such as:

links, posting items, gadgets, tools etc.

Please let Rick or Paul know by email what you would like.

For the time being the administration of this site was left to Paul in order to avoid confusion and haphazard altering of the main elements of the web page.

Send Paul pictures by email that you would like posted.

Also let Paul know if you want your "bio" changed. The present information is just a test start. Ideally it would be nice to have a short bio on each of us with some interesting background information..stuff that you don't mind being on the world wide web.

Next meeting is this upcoming Tuesday, March 10/09.

Miles MacDonald

Miles MacDonald is one of the newcomers to the club. he joined in the latter part of 2008 and is showing great enthusiasm so far. Miles' work is intricate as you can see.

Creating your own web page

If you wish to use Picasa to store your photos, this is the download site for Picasa Web Albums Uploader

You will need to create an account with an email name and password.

This is all free

You can then create your own web page easily.

For the time being if you want to post photos on our cbwoodcrafters page please email the photos to me and I will load them on.

(Paul)

Assignment for members

Your assignment for the next session is:

How does one calculate the volume of a barrel?

From members

Lawrence Martell is one of the first members of the club and is the treasurer.
Lawrence usually only comes when dues are due!
He is a gifted craftsman according to the other lads.
He does not extoll his own virtues..always a good sign.
He is unquestionably a gifted entertainer.
Lawrence can sing like a well tuned table saw.
He plays guitar and fiddle in Stradevarian style.
He entertains the cruise ship clientele on the Sydney wharf regularly
and the rest of us ne're-do-wells on occasion.

From members

Frank Chiasson is a bit of an enigma.

He scares me a lot.He also works at Home Depot, with Irfan.

I am not sure what is wrong with Frank.

They say he was bitten severely by a rabid dog in a sensitive place and that might be it.

From members

Bob Cohen is new to the group. He has been demonstrating great enthusiasm so far. He has just acquired a lathe and some equipment and is anxious to get underway with a few projects. He has made a start on a tapered vase. More to come on Bob.

Minutes Feb 24, 2009

February 24, 2009

Attendance:

Murphy,Naqvi,Rick,Wilson,Joe,Chris,Myles,Irfan,Jim MacLean, Hiltz, Cohen

Discussion opened on the subject of the Cooper.

According to Leo (whose great grandfather and grand uncle were both coopers), a cooper is a cask maker, there are three types of cooperage:

Dry-eg a container for for foods like apples...presumably measured by weight

Wet-for wines, whiskeys etc.... volume measures

White-Makes straight containers like buckets, butterchurns. The staves are not bent in this type work.

The cask is the actual container. (Casket is derived from this term)
The barrel is actually a measure of volume..not the container itself.

Terms:

HOGSHEAD- A 54 imperial gallon cask (now virtually extinct).

BARREL- A 36 imperial gallon cask, uncommon.Puncheon-A cask with a capacity of from 72 to 120 gallons (273 to 454 liters).
FIRKIN, NINE- A 9 imperial gallon cask, the most common size.
MINIPIN- Smaller version of a polypin which holds about 17 imperial pints.
PIN- A 4.5 imperial gallon cask.
POLYPIN- A 4.5 imperial gallon disposable beer container with an inbuilt tap, similar to a large wine box.


Calculate Volume of a barrel

Discussion then proceeded on the project of making the URN,
Jim Hiltz and Rick had their top and bottom components almost completed. They had glued the wedges together to form two halves and are ready to glue the two halves together.
Leo assisted Paul in planing his ash pieces in preparation for the wedge cuts.
Leo then began to discuss the central component for the project (the body of the URN)
Several long strips have to be cut at an 11 1/2 degree angle on the table saw.
The width (widest face) was 1 1/4 inches for the one Leo is doing.
Then these wedges are planed in the thickness planer by using the sled jig that we made in the previous class. A thin strip is inserted under the strips and they are run through the planer and then reversed to plane the opposite face. They are then cut to required length (9 inches) and will be assembled and glued in one session. This is for next class.

We will be meeting in Riverside school on Hornes Road next Tuesday at 7 pm for a business meeting and to demonstrate the new Web Page which is under development.

Minutes February 10,2009

Feb 10/09
Murphy,Rick,Naq,Lawrence,Roy,Joe,Jim MacLean, Hiltz,Myles,
Irfan,Chris

Project: Staved cylinder (Urn)

Leo went over the process of making staves for a barrel/cylinder
For the staves of the cylinder need a piece of wood 70 inches long, 2 inches thick and 4 inches wide. This 2 x 4 is cut into lengths and then divided on the table saw into wedges, which will be glued together to make the cylinder. For cover and bottoms’ you need to cut up some of these wedges
16 pieces 9 inches long cut into 22 1/2 degree wedge slices:
This will make one piece that will be turned on the lathe into the top and bottom segments for the cylinder.

Went over the difference between quarter sawn and flat sawn wood:
First, the log is cut into quarters. Then, the quarter is flipped ninety degress back and forth to saw off a plane of wood. This process does not produce any more waste than plain sawing, but it does require some extra time to flip the quarters back and forth. This milling process produces a specialty wood flooring cut called Rift and Quarter Sawn.
The benefits to this cut of wood are straighter grain that is up to 50% more stable than plain sawn flooring, and a superior looking product featuring less variation, longer lengths, and medullary rays. Click here for pictures.

Irfan Shamim

Irfan Shamim

Irfan joined the club in 2008. He is quite busy at the Home Depot Store, where he works. He is great to keep us informed about the latest deals in woodwork tools and is soon going to be ready to set up his shop and make some things that we can post here .

Jim MacLean

Jimmy is of small stature physically but of great stature intellectually! He is a retired banker. Jim and his wife create sterling silver jewelry, which they sell on the Sydney waterfront to cruise ship passengers. Jimmy is a long-standing  member of the club and has superb woodworking skills to complement his silversmith ability

Roy Troke

Roy is no small man! He is a senior member of the club and has a quiet authority that goes unchallenged. He is a retired navy man. Below are some of Roy's works.

Wilson Rudderham

Wilson is a retired plumbing contractor. His knowledge of fittings has helped us a lot as we developed various "jigs" for the projects. Wilson is a motorcyclist as well. Above are a few examples of Wilsons woodwork:

Membership

Club Members as of 2009

M Naqvi

Naq is new to woodwork, relative to some of the other members that is. He has an avid interest in learning anything new. He is also an accomplished "Pumpkin Grower". His woodwork interest are confined to lathe work at the moment. 

Rick MacDonald

Rick lives on The New Boston Road, which is nowhere near Boston. He is a retired teacher and has a fetish for wood! He is the official archiver and has been in the wood club since its inception.I started in 1981.

Jim Hiltz

Jimmy has been in the club since time immemorial. Jim is a fine craftsman and does a lot of turnings and has done many pieces for local churches. He is presently enjoying his new tool--the McNaughton coring system and his new General Canada Lathe.

Paul Murphy

Paul is one of the junior members of the club.

He enjoys learning from the senior members.

His other interests include teaching, long distance running, and general tinkering.

Here are a few examples from Paul's Workshop.

He has a web page as well.