Rick, Chris, Jimmy MacLean, Miles, Paul
Paul had a dead blow hammer with a loose fitting of the handle.
To fix a hammer with a loose head, remove the handle, drill a few small holes in the wood of the part of the handle that fits inside the business end, apply Chair Doctor glue, which swells the wood, and drive the handle back in place.
Paul had a hexagonal tapered post for a hall tree (for hanging clothing) and needed to find the center of the top of the post so as to install the finial.
Leo demonstrated a way to line the post up and get the center and then use a square block with a predrilled hole lined up with the top of the post to drill down through the post.
Leo went through the process of Gold leafing again.
Gesso has to be applied in many layers followed by bole and then ochre and once dry, the surface is wet and the gold applied with a guilders brush and burnished in.
In former days mercury was used by guilders to handle gold. As well hatters used it.
Since it was poison, these trades had a short life expectancy.
Hence "Mad as a Hatter"
Sheetrock, the plaster used in drywalling, is very hard once dry.
In measuring substances for mixtures eg epoxies, tilting the container sideways until the fluid level is at the bottom of one end and top of the other end gives you exactly half the volume.
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Sunday, March 1, 2015
Clothes Tree (Fine Woodworking)..a very pleasing project and of intermediate skill level..even I can do it!
This is a lovely project and very useful..make one one for every room in the house.
Plans are in Fine Woodworking Magazine
Start with a piece of wood about 72 inches tall..or shorter ..or taller!
It needs to be about 3.5 inches wide and 2 3/4 inches thick , so 12/4 stock would be needed.
or else laminate three or four boards to make this.
Measure up and draw a hexagon with equal sides on the end of the stock.
(Helps to draw one on paper and transfer it to the end of the stock)
The angle of each corner would be 60 degrees for a uniform hexagon.
To draw out a hexagon; scribe a circle on paper using your compass
Take the radius length with a compass ( ie same setting that you did for the circle-don't change the compass setting) and then scribe arcs of this distance around the circumference.; Should get a six sided results when you joint up all the points
Make sure all the sides are of equal width
Tilt the saw table to 30 degrees and raise the blade (Ripping blade) to just over half the thickness of the stock
( Use a rip blade , as the cut is hefty)
It is a bit tricky at the end of the cut because of the length of the piece..an outfeed support would help
Run the stock through to cut the first facet
Flip it end for end and do the second cut.
Reverse the stock and do the same on the other side.
Properly done , carefully measured, you should have a uniform hexagonal shape.
(At this stage you could cut a section off one end to become the finial and drill the holes through the top and finial to accept a dowel so as to fit the finial on correctly at the end of the project. This might be easier than trying to make the finial separately after you have tapered the post)
At the bottom, cut three dovetail grooves centered on alternating facets to accommodate three arc legs. They need to be 1/2 inch or so deep : otherwise when you try to slide the legs into place, you might split the sides of these grooves. Use a 3/8 dovetail bit for this groove. A 3/4 groove ends up too much and splitting as you slide the legs into the grooves is possible.
Then taper the stock starting about 1/3 the way up from the bottom; do this on the jointer or with a hand plane: mark the tapers on the end of the stock so that the final width of each facet is about 13/16 or whatever you desire.
Then make three arc legs..draw a design on paper, glue it to your wood and band saw it out. Then refines the cut using a wooden spokeshave or sander or whatever works.
Cut the dovetail on the ends (same height /depth as you used for the grooves)
I used a router table for this step
Slide them into the grooves...take a skim off one side of your dovetail to make it fit right.
Be careful as it is easy to take off too much and then the fit is sloppy.
If the fit is too tight you run a risk of splitting the stem as you tap the legs into the dovetail grooves
Now you need to make a finial for the top.
Shape a piece of wood and glue it onto the top using a dowel to center it.
Finally drill a few holes for the hanger pegs wherever you wish: near the top works!
Now you can assemble it, finish it and start to brag about your skill!
Stand by for updates!
Plans are in Fine Woodworking Magazine
Start with a piece of wood about 72 inches tall..or shorter ..or taller!
It needs to be about 3.5 inches wide and 2 3/4 inches thick , so 12/4 stock would be needed.
or else laminate three or four boards to make this.
Measure up and draw a hexagon with equal sides on the end of the stock.
(Helps to draw one on paper and transfer it to the end of the stock)
The angle of each corner would be 60 degrees for a uniform hexagon.
To draw out a hexagon; scribe a circle on paper using your compass
Take the radius length with a compass ( ie same setting that you did for the circle-don't change the compass setting) and then scribe arcs of this distance around the circumference.; Should get a six sided results when you joint up all the points
Make sure all the sides are of equal width
Tilt the saw table to 30 degrees and raise the blade (Ripping blade) to just over half the thickness of the stock
( Use a rip blade , as the cut is hefty)
It is a bit tricky at the end of the cut because of the length of the piece..an outfeed support would help
Run the stock through to cut the first facet
Flip it end for end and do the second cut.
Reverse the stock and do the same on the other side.
Properly done , carefully measured, you should have a uniform hexagonal shape.
(At this stage you could cut a section off one end to become the finial and drill the holes through the top and finial to accept a dowel so as to fit the finial on correctly at the end of the project. This might be easier than trying to make the finial separately after you have tapered the post)
At the bottom, cut three dovetail grooves centered on alternating facets to accommodate three arc legs. They need to be 1/2 inch or so deep : otherwise when you try to slide the legs into place, you might split the sides of these grooves. Use a 3/8 dovetail bit for this groove. A 3/4 groove ends up too much and splitting as you slide the legs into the grooves is possible.
Then taper the stock starting about 1/3 the way up from the bottom; do this on the jointer or with a hand plane: mark the tapers on the end of the stock so that the final width of each facet is about 13/16 or whatever you desire.
Then make three arc legs..draw a design on paper, glue it to your wood and band saw it out. Then refines the cut using a wooden spokeshave or sander or whatever works.
Cut the dovetail on the ends (same height /depth as you used for the grooves)
I used a router table for this step
Slide them into the grooves...take a skim off one side of your dovetail to make it fit right.
Be careful as it is easy to take off too much and then the fit is sloppy.
If the fit is too tight you run a risk of splitting the stem as you tap the legs into the dovetail grooves
Now you need to make a finial for the top.
Shape a piece of wood and glue it onto the top using a dowel to center it.
Finally drill a few holes for the hanger pegs wherever you wish: near the top works!
Now you can assemble it, finish it and start to brag about your skill!
| Drill out the slots with a forstner bit first |
| Drill out the grooves with a Forstner 1/2 inch bit before going to the router table for the dovetail groove |
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| Use a dovetail bit on the router table to complete the grooves |
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| Completed stand less the finial top and hanger pegs |
Stand by for updates!
Monday, February 16, 2015
February 10/14
Rick, Miles, Paul, J Hiltz and J macLean
We continued to work on the vase project.
Leo has developed a sophisticated jig mechanism to use a die grinder to carve out the designs on the vases while they are mounted on the lathe.
We are practicing gold leafing
Using Fish glue and whiting to place multiple coats on a wood base, sanding every layer to build up a Flat and smooth surface for gold leaf application practice.
The fish glue and whiting is uses because when the surface is wetted, the glue melts a bit and the gold leaf grabs the surface nicely.
Whiting is limestone (CaCo3)
Could use medusa cement as well
Target makes a water based acrylic lacquer
Bole is clay and water
Mix Bole with glue (Rabbit glue)
Gesso is whiting and concrete bond
Use 8-10 coats
Then add the bole in several coats
Sand to 2000
Apply gold leaf
Use a plastic cap with a foam plug..wetted..to cover your spray gun tip when spraying the acrylic
This prevents the acrylic from drying on the nozzle
Rick, Miles, Paul, J Hiltz and J macLean
We continued to work on the vase project.
Leo has developed a sophisticated jig mechanism to use a die grinder to carve out the designs on the vases while they are mounted on the lathe.
We are practicing gold leafing
Using Fish glue and whiting to place multiple coats on a wood base, sanding every layer to build up a Flat and smooth surface for gold leaf application practice.
The fish glue and whiting is uses because when the surface is wetted, the glue melts a bit and the gold leaf grabs the surface nicely.
Whiting is limestone (CaCo3)
Could use medusa cement as well
Target makes a water based acrylic lacquer
Bole is clay and water
Mix Bole with glue (Rabbit glue)
Gesso is whiting and concrete bond
Use 8-10 coats
Then add the bole in several coats
Sand to 2000
Apply gold leaf
Use a plastic cap with a foam plug..wetted..to cover your spray gun tip when spraying the acrylic
This prevents the acrylic from drying on the nozzle
Glueing tips
Tips:
Glueing up a large panel:
Lay 2 strips of flat, planed wood on the surface on which you are working
Level these using an accurate level
Place the finish planed strips which you are glueing on the boards
Glue up 3 to 5 pieces at a time
Place 5 or 6 more strips on back of these (NO GLUE)
Clamp this assembly
Continue adding strips, glueing several and using several more UNGLUED strips to do the clamp-up
This results in aa level surface with no "wind ", requiring less planing/sanding
Assembling a table, desk etc
Using fish or hide glue makes glue-up easier as it acts as a lubricant and is less likely to grab : you can adjust the members more easily and steaming the joint will let you correct a mistake in alignment.
Glue up one side /section of a large piece at a time
Dry assemble the rest for clamping, keeping everything straight and aligned properly
Then glue up another section
Guilders use rabbit glue for gold leafing
Instant glue(Cyanoacrylates): you can leave the cap off or set it loosely on the bottle: the glue doesn't harden in the bottle.
Glueing up a large panel:
Lay 2 strips of flat, planed wood on the surface on which you are working
Level these using an accurate level
Place the finish planed strips which you are glueing on the boards
Glue up 3 to 5 pieces at a time
Place 5 or 6 more strips on back of these (NO GLUE)
Clamp this assembly
Continue adding strips, glueing several and using several more UNGLUED strips to do the clamp-up
This results in aa level surface with no "wind ", requiring less planing/sanding
Assembling a table, desk etc
Using fish or hide glue makes glue-up easier as it acts as a lubricant and is less likely to grab : you can adjust the members more easily and steaming the joint will let you correct a mistake in alignment.
Glue up one side /section of a large piece at a time
Dry assemble the rest for clamping, keeping everything straight and aligned properly
Then glue up another section
Guilders use rabbit glue for gold leafing
Instant glue(Cyanoacrylates): you can leave the cap off or set it loosely on the bottle: the glue doesn't harden in the bottle.
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Definitions:
Bole- a smooth clay/water mixture: applied i n layers over a surface in preparation for gold leafing. Use this past mixture and mix it with Rabbit skin glue to get the best surface for gold leafing.
Whiting-Limestone (calcium carbonate) : mix with fish or hide glue and apply several layers to surface to create a hard sooth surface; sand between each application
Medussa cement can be used in stead of limestone
Gesso-a hard compound of plaster of Paris or whiting in glue(Rabbit) used in sculpture or as a base for gilding or painting on wood.
Guilders brush-picks up gold leaf by static electricity
Target acrylic--a water based acrylic lacquer: excellent to spray on.
(Cover the nozzle of the spray gun with a plastic cap foam filled and dampened to prevent the nozzle from hardening over.)
Ochre-a coloured clay to make Bole
Agate-stone used to smooth on the gold leaf
Bole- a smooth clay/water mixture: applied i n layers over a surface in preparation for gold leafing. Use this past mixture and mix it with Rabbit skin glue to get the best surface for gold leafing.
Whiting-Limestone (calcium carbonate) : mix with fish or hide glue and apply several layers to surface to create a hard sooth surface; sand between each application
Medussa cement can be used in stead of limestone
Gesso-a hard compound of plaster of Paris or whiting in glue(Rabbit) used in sculpture or as a base for gilding or painting on wood.
Guilders brush-picks up gold leaf by static electricity
Target acrylic--a water based acrylic lacquer: excellent to spray on.
(Cover the nozzle of the spray gun with a plastic cap foam filled and dampened to prevent the nozzle from hardening over.)
Ochre-a coloured clay to make Bole
Agate-stone used to smooth on the gold leaf
Fibonacci numbers or Fibonacci sequence are the numbers in the following integer sequence:
or (often, in modern usage):
.
By definition, the first two numbers in the Fibonacci sequence are either 1 and 1, or 0 and 1, depending on the chosen starting point of the sequence, and each subsequent number is the sum of the previous two.
Golden Ratio
In mathematics, two quantities are in the golden ratio if their ratio is the same as the ratio of their sum to the larger of the two quantities. Expressed algebraically, for quantities a and b with a > b > 0,
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
Vase continued
J Hiltz, J Maclean, Rick, Paul
Rick discussed his Montreal trip and visit to a woodwork group there.
We continued to work on the vase.
Jim Hiltz had one shaped and ready for the inlay steps.
It was actually a new vase
(he tried to let on that it was the original one , which he has ruined but we were quick to catch him on this)
Leo showed us how to lay out the curves on the lathe bed which the router will follow .
The designed is pencilled onto the vase using the index head to make three symmetric design patterns.
It is important that the vase be well centered before getting to this step.
https://picasaweb.google.com/113117572512341448928?authkey=Gv1sRgCKae1tjd9IaqVQ
Rick discussed his Montreal trip and visit to a woodwork group there.
We continued to work on the vase.
Jim Hiltz had one shaped and ready for the inlay steps.
It was actually a new vase
(he tried to let on that it was the original one , which he has ruined but we were quick to catch him on this)
Leo showed us how to lay out the curves on the lathe bed which the router will follow .
The designed is pencilled onto the vase using the index head to make three symmetric design patterns.
It is important that the vase be well centered before getting to this step.
https://picasaweb.google.com/113117572512341448928?authkey=Gv1sRgCKae1tjd9IaqVQ
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
November
Paul, Miles, Jim Hiltz, Jim MacLean
we discussed several interesting things tonight:
Leo showed how to make a sanding disk from 3M pads embedded with carborundum powder using an epoxy that bonds leaving a flexible finish instead of a hard finish. (E 6000)
He discusses further the design of the new vase project.
Jim Hiltz had a good start made on his.
Leo went through the lathe setup for mounting the vase to profile it and then how to make a plywood base template to guide the router cut that will make the inlay.
Leo showed us a variety of hefty jogs he made to enable hollowing out a vase .
we discussed several interesting things tonight:
Leo showed how to make a sanding disk from 3M pads embedded with carborundum powder using an epoxy that bonds leaving a flexible finish instead of a hard finish. (E 6000)
He discusses further the design of the new vase project.
Jim Hiltz had a good start made on his.
Leo went through the lathe setup for mounting the vase to profile it and then how to make a plywood base template to guide the router cut that will make the inlay.
Leo showed us a variety of hefty jogs he made to enable hollowing out a vase .
Sunday, October 5, 2014
fall sessions
September 30/14
Paul, Miles, Rick and Jim
We started back to work on the jewellery box project. Some of us are a little behind !
Leo suggested we start a vase project for the fall using a new technique he has developed.
Jim asked that we have a session on sharpening carbide blades.
https://plus.google.com/photos/113117572512341448928/albums/6066730735823639377?authkey=CMKX0qqfyc-wtAE
Paul, Miles, Rick and Jim
We started back to work on the jewellery box project. Some of us are a little behind !
Leo suggested we start a vase project for the fall using a new technique he has developed.
Jim asked that we have a session on sharpening carbide blades.
https://plus.google.com/photos/113117572512341448928/albums/6066730735823639377?authkey=CMKX0qqfyc-wtAE
September 30/14
Rick. Miles, Paul, Jim Hiltz
We decided to start a vase project with the inlay/relief work that Leo has been perfecting. leo distributed enough poplar stock to the four of us to start the glue up and preliminary turning.
We did not get around to starting the sharpening project yet: i.e. carbide blades and twist drills.
Rick. Miles, Paul, Jim Hiltz
We decided to start a vase project with the inlay/relief work that Leo has been perfecting. leo distributed enough poplar stock to the four of us to start the glue up and preliminary turning.
We did not get around to starting the sharpening project yet: i.e. carbide blades and twist drills.
Tuesday, June 3, 2014
Last session for spring
Rick, Miles, Jim Hiltz, Chris, Paul, Brian
Continued work on the jewellery box project. Leo demonstrated the many jigs that are used to complete the box. Rick just about completed his. The rest of us are a little behind.
Continued work on the jewellery box project. Leo demonstrated the many jigs that are used to complete the box. Rick just about completed his. The rest of us are a little behind.
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| January 2014 |
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