Minutes October 27/09

October 27,20009

Miles, Lawrence, Paul, Frank Chiasson, Jim Hiltz,Chris

We reviewed the angles and formulae for the project again.

Leo talked us through the process of turning the bucket on the lathe once it is glued up.

A temporary top and bottom will be glued in place to provide for mounting with the chuck.

The outside will be turned round .

A flat will be cut to allow the steady rest to be placed.

The one end will be removed and the inside will be rounded.

Another temporary piece of wood will be used to remount the piece on the chuck from the inside and the outside will be rounded and lastly a groove for the bottom will be made.

An allen wrench has hard steel and can be shaped into a cutter to do the groove.

Paul's planer..click photo to see album and then click slide show

Paul's Planer...before and after

Minutes October 13/09

From Tapered Bucket (cooper) project

October 13, 20090 Paul, Rick, Miles, Lawrence

Leo re-explained the math of doing the stave taper, slope and bevel angles of the bucket project.

eg for a 32 stave bucket:

360/32 is 11.25 degrees;

each side is then 11.25/2=5.625 degrees

5.625/90 (degrees)=.0625

.0625 x 80 (for a 10 degree slope) =5 degrees

.0625 x 85 (for a 5 degree slope) =5.3125 degrees (or 90-5.3125, which is 84.6875 degrees)

These are the bevel angles for each stave

To gage the thickness of a turning, use an inside caliper, then an outside caliper at the same level, subtract and half this to get the thickness of the turning.

Tapered bucket (Click for a video)

September 29,, 2009

Attendance: Chris, Paul, Rick, Hiltz, Miles

Leo demonstrated how to calculate the angles needed to make a tapered bucket..the next project.

The first step is to make a drawing of the project.

Draw a large circle representing the largest diameter (top) of the bucket and inside this draw a smaller circle, representing the smaller diameter(base) of the bucket.

Draw diameters representing the total number of segments you want: eg two diameters is four segments, four is eight etc.

Measure out the width of the segments from the diagram.

Cut these a little over sized using a taper jig (10 degrees)

The jointer is used to do the bevels.

Two passes on each side generally do.

Calculating the bevel angle:

360/# segments

eg 360/24=15

15/2 is 7.5 degrees (each side)

7.5/90 is 0.083

The slope will be 10 degrees

0.083 x 10 = .83

The angle needed is 8.3 degrees

See utube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3z4dMBNCSAg

Also this :

The chord of a segment of a curve =2 times radius times sin (central angle /2)
Say the bucket top is 16” inside diameter with 12 staves
A circle is 360 degrees, so the central angle for each stave is 30 degrees (360/12)
The radius is 8” or half the 16” inside diameter.
So, the inside measurement of each stave top is 2 times 8 times sin (30/2) = 4.14”
Say the bucket bottom is 12” inside diameter. The central angle is still 30 degrees.
The inside measurement of each stave bottom is 2 times 6 times sin (30/2) = 3.11”

The stave angle is half the central angle or 15 degrees for 12 staves.

Angles calculator

Rick MacDonald brought this web site to my attention.

May 26/09 meeting

May 26/09

J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Chris, Paul

Tonight we completed the drilling and tapping of the holes for the end pieces. We hand tapped the holes and then tapped in the half inch threaded rod using soap as a lubricant. File off a groove on opposite sides of the end of the rod. This allows it to cut and enter cleanly.

Once the rod is threaded through the pieces, one end had a bolt welded on and the other end two bolts so that it can be disassembled if need be.

Leo discussed the strength of various thread patterns.

Planer Jig

This is from Fine Woodworking Magazine and is a variation on Leo's jig for using the thickness planer as a jointer.

Just click on the title Planer Jig to view the article.

I have a subscription to the online version and can view the articles and download them so if you come across something you want me to download, speak up.

PFM

May 19, 2009 meeting

Attendance: Miles, Jim Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Bob, Lawrence, Paul

We continued to work on the boring jig. Leo has made more refinements on the prototype. (The mock-up was the original one he made and demonstrated for ua a few meetings ago)

Jim Hiltz and Rick have done acceptable work on their project but Paul managed to make a “balls” of his. He cut the platform too short and has to start all over. Instead of sympathy and understanding, he received mockery from some of the lads and was left feeling abashed. So much for camaraderie! (Only Lawrence Martell showed empathy. Perhaps Lawrence had the experience of cutting a few pieces too short in is time).

The overall length of the platform is about 25 inches and it is 11 inches wide and at least one inch thick.

Cut a dado 2 1/2 inches in from each end to accept uprights (1 3/8 thick) and cut tenons on the ends of the uprights to fit snugly in the dado. Do this carefully.

Mark a point in the center of the board 1 1/2 inches in from the dado on one end and then swing an ark 13 1/8 inches up to the opposite end and drill this arc out with 1 / 2 inch holes to create a curved arc. The arc ends about 2 inches in from the side edges. Drill the first marked point to 1/2 inch also.

Drill a series (see photo) of 1/4 inch holes along each edge, spacing them about 11/16 inches apart on center and starting 1 1/2 in in from the edge for the first one.

Use a jig on the drill press to include a pin to insure that each hole is identically separated from the rest.

Flip the board to drill the holes on the opposite end.

The upright will have a through hole bored across its length ( 1 3/4 inches in from the tenon end) to accept the threaded rod. This hole is bored at 7/16 inches (the hole is then threaded to 1/2 inches).

A special jig is used on the press to drill the hole part way through one side, flip it and do the other side and then finish it with a hand drill. It consists of a welded iron right angle brace, against which the workpiece is clamped to make sure that it is 90 degrees to the bit travel. (see photos)

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Lay the test piece on top of the assembled workpiece/squaring jig and play with it until the bit enters correctly when the piece is flipped end to end.Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

See photos.

Take care to do a test piece the same thickness as your wood member so that the hole is exactly centered. Do not move the drill press set up once this is set.

From May 19 meeting

May 12/09 meeting

Attendance:

Naq, Murphy, Miles, Jim MacLean, J Hiltz, Chris, Rick, Wilson,

Leo developed the plan for an improved version of the boring jig for the lathe.

It is hard to explain in words so check the photos for some appreciation of how it is made.

Leo showed how to use the drill press to make an arc shaped groove into a piece of wood, using a brad point bit to cut a series of holes along the arc and the Forstner bit to clean up the holes and finally using an end mill bit to further improve the result.

Leo discussed how to sneak up on cuts on the table saw..eg for cutting a dado and an end tenon.

Leo revisited the jig for turning a thickness planer into a jointer....see the March 24/09 minutes for a comment about this.

Leo cut each of us a piece of birch to get started on the jig.

Jim Hiltz spoiled Paul's piece by burning the end on the saw and refused to exchange his "good" piece for the one he assigned to Paul. He certainly was a bad sport tonight.

Minutes..May 5, 2009

May 5, 2009

Attendance: Paul, J Hiltz, Rick, Wilson, Miles, J MacLean, Chris

We discussed the summer lobster party.

Paul would host this but can't until the latter part of August (by orders from Jo-Anne).

Those present felt that we could live with this agenda.

Leo invented a mechanical mechanism made of wood to use as a boring bar for the hollow turnings projects.

He went through the process of making it and then used it to turn the inside of the vase...Ricks. See photos for what the design is like.

Tip: When turning a thin plate, the piece will wobble as you turn the outside edge . To avoid this, turn the back first and finish it in the usual fashion; then reverse it; turn the outer 1/3 as thin as you want it, leaving the inner circle good and thick to provide substance to avoid wobble; then turn the inside.

Tip: A clutch can be used with your cutting tool to do a "facing", ie make a flat surface on the turning.:eg in facing a thin piece. This consists of a hollow ring (metal or wood) with a plate on the side of it about 3 or 4 inches long. The hollow in the center is just a little bigger than the gouge. When the side plate is squeezed, it secures the cutter tightly and provides rigidity to bring the tool across the workpiece evenly.